Most prospective home buyers want to know as much as possible about the condition of the house they are buying. Few would be willing to buy a house with a leaking roof or a heating system that could fail at any time without at least getting an adjustment in the sale price to compensate for the problem.

But even careful buyers often overlook a critical system in the house that could cost tens of thousands of dollars to replace: the septic system.

A lot of people don't realize that a good part of the value of a house may be buried outside in the yard. In most cases, since a septic system is out of sight, it's out of mind, too.

Many buyers pay too little attention and ask too few questions about the condition of the septic system when they are buying a house.

People think that if the toilets flush and the water drains out of the sink that everything is working fine. But that doesn't necessarily mean that everything will be working fine tomorrow.

To make an informed decision about a house with a septic system, prospective homeowners first need to understand how such a system works.

In most cases, the system consists of three basic parts: the septic tank into which waste from the house is deposited; a distribution box on the outlet side of the septic tank; and a drainage field.

The septic tank will be built out of either concrete, steel or fiberglass and is generally a rectangular box that can hold 1,000 to 1,500 gallons of waste. The tank is usually buried a few feet below the surface and has a covered opening through which it can be cleaned. One end of the tank is connected to the main sewage line coming out of the house and the other end is connected to the distribution box.

In a properly operating system waste water from the house flows into the tank through the sewage line. Once there, the solids fall to the bottom of the tank as the level of liquid in the tank rises. When the liquid rises to the outlet port -- which is always lower than the inlet port -- it then flows out of the tank and into the distribution box. From the distribution box the effluent is then evenly distributed into the drain field through perforated plastic pipes buried underground.

Though such a system may seem foolproof, several things can go wrong. For example, if the solids in the septic tank are allowed to rise to the level of the outlet port, they can clog the distribution box, the perforated drainage pipes and the drain field itself.

Too much use can overtax a properly functioning system. If too much waste water drains into the system too quickly, for example, the drainage field may be unable to accommodate the volume. In fact, adding too much water to a system too quickly can stir up solids in the tank and allow them to migrate into the distribution box and the drainage pipes, thereby exacerbating the problem.

Remember the saying: "The grass is always greener over the septic tank?" Well, if the grass is greener over your septic field, that probably means that there is water pooling underneath. And if that water breaks the surface, the local health inspector can shut you down immediately.

Those buying a property with a septic system should do two things: get as much information as possible about the maintenance of the system from the current owner and then hire an expert to inspect the system.

If you're going to move into a house with a septic system, you want to make sure that the system can handle what you need it to handle. While a particular system might function correctly when handling 400 gallons a day, that same system could be seriously overtaxed if subjected to twice that amount.

And that could easily happen if a large family takes up permanent residence in a house that was originally intended for only seasonal use -- something that happens frequently in resort areas.

You would also want to know how well the system was maintained. Under normal circumstances a septic tank should be pumped clean every two years or so.

Very few people maintain their tanks the way they should. And even if you find a house that has a tank that was cleaned regularly, you should still have the system inspected by an expert.

Just hiring a home inspection service to inspect a house will not necessarily produce an adequate inspection of the septic system.

Most home inspection companies are not going to do a really thorough inspection of the septic system. The most commonly used test -- in which a fluorescent dye is introduced into the system to determine whether any effluent is surfacing in the drainage field -- will only show problems with systems that already have fairly serious problems.

The best test is what is known as an open pit test. And that can cost as much as $600.

With an open pit test, the home inspection company calls in a septic system cleaning company to pump out the tank so that it can be inspected. Doing so, he said, will generally require removing the dirt from on top of the tank and the distribution box so that the covers can be removed and the inside of the tanks inspected.

Some companies will use mirrors to inspect the inside of the tank and some will use video cameras and fiber optics to inspect the system. Metal septic tanks are especially prone to rust damage.

Metal tanks are generally only going to last about 25 years. If you have to replace a septic system, you could easily be looking at a cost of anywhere from $5,000 to $15,000, depending on whether or not the drainage field has to be replaced at the same time.

Accordingly, it is critical, at the very least, to have a home inspection or septic system expert determine, as accurately as possible, the area used as the drainage field and to inspect that area for signs of a problem.

This is one of those tests where no news is good news. There should be nothing about the surface above the drain field that would indicate there is a drain field beneath.

If you use a dye test, you want to walk the surface of the field to see if any of the dye has surfaced. And you don't want to smell anything that you shouldn't be smelling.

Source: NYtimes.com

If your septic system has failed and you are trying to sell your home, you have a couple of options.

Repair or replace the septic system

When it comes to achieving the highest possible sale price for your home, repairing or replacing your septic system will likely be your best option. However, you’ll need a decent chunk of change to be able to accomplish this. Septic tank cost can vary based on the size of your home and your location.

It’s also possible you could connect your home to a sewer line in your area, but this comes at a cost as well. However, keep in mind that a new septic or sewer system will be considered a capital improvement by the Internal Revenue Service, so you can add those charges to increase your cost basis. That means you may pay less in taxes on the profits from the sale.

While you can usually get a repair or replacement complete in a matter of days or weeks, it’ll require some time, energy, and money on your part. On the bright side, a new septic or sewer system will open up the pool of potential buyers considerably, and you should be able to get a fair offer price for your home.

List on the market in ‘as-is’ condition

If you can’t afford to prepare your home for sale, you can list it on the market in its current condition. Some buyers may see this as an opportunity to get a good deal, but most buyers want turnkey homes. There are pros and cons to going this route.

Pros//Cons:

• Save money on repairs
• Save time on negotiations
• Move quickly if you find a prospective buyer
• Reach a smaller group of buyers
• Receive a lower offer price
• Potentially wait while your house sits on the market
• Keep in mind that most lenders won’t provide a mortgage for a house with a failed septic system, so you’ll most likely be working with a cash buyer. Furthermore, you’ll still pay real estate commission fees and closing costs. You can avoid spending any money preparing your home for sale if you sell off-market.

For more information on septic tank replacement, contact Morse Engineering and Construction.

Source: sundae.com

Before you declare your septic system a total failure, consider hiring someone to inspect, pump, and clean the system. This should be done every three to five years for most septic systems. So it’s possible maintenance neglect could be the culprit. In fact, the International Association of Home Inspectors recommends annual inspections to keep your septic system functioning properly. That’s because a malfunctioning septic system poses health and pollution risks.

The good news is, getting your septic tank pumped is relatively inexpensive. And when selling your home, most lenders and some local laws require an inspection anyway.

In some cases, however, your septic system could be beyond repair. It could be the age of the system, faulty installation, or damage from nearby landscaping or construction. In any event, here are some signs your septic system has failed:

• Water and sewage backing up into your home through the toilets and drains
• Slow-draining bathtubs, showers, and sinks and slow-flushing toilets
• Gurgling noises in the plumbing
• Wet or damp areas or bad odors near the septic tank or drainfield
• Lush grass growth over the septic tank or drainfield; grass should be brown

If you notice one or more of these red flags, it’s likely your septic system has failed. For more information on septic tank inspections or replacement, contact Morse Engineering and Construction.

sundae.com

If you are listing the home on the open market, you should be sure that your septic system is up-to-date and in good working order. Increasingly, mortgage companies have been wanting septic tank inspections so they can know whether or not there’s a potential issue.

A septic inspection might not be necessary, though, if a seller can show that the tank has been serviced and pumped recently.

A home inspector also might request a septic system inspection if they notice that there are some signs of issues. This includes things like backflow in the drains or slow-flowing toilets.

For more information on septic tank inspections, contact Morse Engineering and Construction.

Source: ibuyer.com

You can hire a qualified private contractor to inspect your septic system.

Usually, an inspection will involve finding the underground tank’s location. This might mean using a sketch of the property and system that was made during the permitting process. Or it can mean flushing a small radio transmitter down the toilet, which is then removed once they locate the tank.

The inspector will then use a long, hollow pole that is known as a Sludge Judge to measure the level of solids in the tank. They will also check the other components in the tank.

A number of factors will determine how much this inspection costs. They usually cost between $100 and $250. It could cost more than this, though, depending on your location, how deep the tank is, and whether or not an inspector has to uncover it.

It’s important to understand that the cost of having a septic tank inspected is quite small compared to the potential cost of paying for repairs. To replace a drain field, for example, can cost you anywhere between $2,500 and $10,000.

For information or to make an appointment, contact Morse Engineering and Construction.

Source: ibuyer.com

Many times folks believe they can simply restart a septic system by flooding it with a high dosage of pre-treated bacteria to eat up the sludge that might be overloading a conventional tank and causing a blockage. While these treatments do have some effect, they are not a system replacement per se.

The fact is, there is already plenty of bacteria working a hardy job in most septic tanks breaking down solids. Unfortunately, it still ends up creating sediment that displaces water and ultimately becomes a silty sludge that can block water flow and limit its eventual drainage out to the leech field or drain field. At that point, it doesn’t matter how much bacteria is present, the tank needs to be physically cleared usually through a professionally-equipped pumping.

How to Maintain Any Septic System Once You Choose One

A worker emptying the underground septic tank with a thick suction hose.

A key step any property owner should be taking is to first make it a regular habit to inspect the current system on a regular basis and have it serviced/pumped consistently as well. At the latest, any septic system with a holding should be pumped and cleaned every three years and not later. This figure might actually shorten and become more frequent if the household size is large and the system is used for more than average home or building.

Second, it might seem counterintuitive but the less water going down the drain, the better. Efficient toilets and faucets can go a long way in limiting the amount of wastewater produced, letting bacteria do its job better in the tank, and reducing the demand on the system to drain and dissipate faster.

Finally, drains should be kept free of non-biological material. Trash waste and processed products should never be sent down the drain and should instead be disposed of in garbage cans instead. These kinds of materials don’t break down quickly and will contribute to the system build-up.

Don’t forget, maintenance of your system also includes keeping up the condition of the drain field as well. No one should ever be allowed to park a car or place anything heavy on the field location itself. Trees, bushes, and thick-root plants should not be allowed to grow anywhere near a drain-field ever.

The roots can be pervasive and extremely destructive to pipes and the tank itself. And another drainage from the house or building should be diverted to a different location versus the drain field. This will avoid excess saturation of the soil with too much water, especially during the rainy season.

For information or to make an appointment, contact Morse Engineering and Construction.

Source: homestratosphere.com

The Intermittent Sand Filter Approach

To compensate for a poor layer of soil, sand is used instead. Sand is extremely permeable for water, which flows through it extremely fast. Sand also collectively has a high density which blocks solid matter from moving forward. With this approach, a sand drain field is essentially created producing the desired drainage effect not otherwise possible.

A Recirculating Sand Filter Approach

For areas where there might be a high sensitivity to a drain field and need to ensure the water existing is completely clear of matter a looped system provides a double sand filter effect. Water moves through a sand block twice before it finally drains and evaporates out. Whatever the first sand filter did not stop, usually in very small particulate matter, the second layer does block.

A Mound Septic Design

Using gravity as an enhancing power, this approach keeps the water line and the tank above the ground level, forcing the wastewater to move into a drain field situation that pulls water downward. The gravity effect forces water through a sand layer that filters it so what finally exits is completely clear liquid into the surrounding soil area.

An Evaporation Septic Approach

Designed for very dry and arid locations, this system uses an evapotranspiration approach to draw water into moisture deficit areas of dry soil, grass, and plants. All three create a suction effect of moisture pulling it through the system. This approach, however, should never be used in areas where there is more than two feet of rainfall annually.

An Aerobic Septic System

Oxygen is a major destroyer of anything organic. This is a well-known biological fact, especially with rotting material. The Aerobic Septic system literally and proactively exposes wastewater to oxygen which speeds up the breakdown process as well as the evaporation later on. Once the water moves through the system it tends to be cleaner and dissipates far faster than other systems.

Drip Irrigation

This approach is ideal for homes where the existing landscape needs to be used and it might not be possible to install the septic system in a nice open field. With the drip irrigation design and the wastewater is pumped out into a network of pipes and channels buried under the ground to the level of 8 inches depth.

However, because this system is quite complex in terms of connections, it’s critical that both the pump out block, as well as the channels, are kept clear through filtering as well as regular maintenance. Otherwise, the channels will likely block up and fail pretty quick.

A Low-Pressure Septic System

It’s not a true alternative septic system per se, but the low-pressure approach does work better in soil areas where the ground doesn’t want to be very cooperative. This system utilizes a low-pressure pumping effect to push water into the tank and out to the soil, forcing it to drain instead of waiting for gravity to do all the work. As the water moves and spreads, it drains out and dissipates into the surrounding soil faster.

For information or to make an appointment, contact Morse Engineering and Construction.

Source: homestratosphere.com

The fact is most people have no idea that they have choices. Your environment where the system will go has a big influence on which septic systems will work better. The problems could range from filling up too quickly to poor drainage to equipment breaking. Almost all of those results mean significant costs for repair and cleanup.

The Two Big Categories of Septic Systems

Almost all septic systems fall in one of two groupings. The first is conventional and the second is, almost predictably, alternative. However, if you thought the choice was easy enough to pick one or the other, surprise. The alternative category alone includes 20 different system models that one can pick from.

The Conventional Septic System Model

This category tends to be what most people are familiar with. The conventional model involves a large tank buried in the ground near the home or building that it will service. Using gravity, the wastewater that comes from the home drains into the tank.

The water line in and out continues to drain liquid out from the tank to the ground which is known as the drain field. Solid mass carried by the wastewater from the home flows into the tank and, with gravity, falls to the bottom while the water itself continues forward to draining. Eventually, due to bacteria, the solid material breaks down in the tank and settles at the bottom.

The big issue with a conventional system is the surrounding soil. The dirt and soil need to be permeable enough that as water flow reaches the tank and then the drain field, it flows into the soil and eventually evaporates upwards into the air as the ground dries out. This is enhanced by a series of pipes from the drain tank into the drain field that allows the water to move forward and farther out into the field instead of saturating the immediate exit point.

The second concern with the conventional system involves the tank. Over time, even with bacteria and break-down, the solid matter will build up inside the tank. This process will take years, but it does occur. If the tank is not pumped regularly the material will eventually block up the flow and the new wastewater will back up into the house or building. Without maintenance, most owners find out about this problem the hard way during the rainy season or a big blockage event.

The conventional septic system design has been a proven approach for decades. Taken care of properly, these standard systems will last anywhere from 25 to 30 years before a full replacement is needed. They are made from usually three different materials: concrete, fiberglass, or polyethylene.

Alternative Septic System Types

Designed to deal with situations where a septic tank is a must but the surrounding soil doesn’t want to cooperate with easy draining, alternative systems use internal methods to help water separately and dissipate from the system faster instead of leaching out in a drain field.

Poor draining situations can occur from a variety of causes. Some are a result of too much rock and impermeable material in the immediate area, making it far too expensive to drill out the lock or break it down to solve the problem.

This happens a lot where a septic system is needed and it turns out just below the surface soil there’s a rock layer, like granite. In other cases, the local water table is simply too high so the wastewater can’t drain out properly with gravity. Swampy areas are notorious for this kind of situation. Fortunately, alternative systems still allow water to be removed and let solid matter escape from the home or building with drainage.

Next week we'll discuss options in alternative systems.

Source: homestratosphere.com/types-of-septic-systems/

What does this program do?

Also known as the Section 504 Home Repair program, this provides loans to very-low-income homeowners to repair, improve or modernize their homes or grants to elderly very-low-income homeowners to remove health and safety hazards.

Who may apply for this program?

To qualify, you must:

• Be the homeowner and occupy the house
• Be unable to obtain affordable credit elsewhere
• Have a family income below 50 percent of the area median income 
• For grants, be age 62 or older and not be able to repay a repair loan

What is an eligible area?

Applicants may check the address of their home to determine eligibility.

How may funds be used?

• Loans may be used to repair, improve or modernize homes or remove health and safety hazards
• Grants must be used to remove health and safety hazards

How much money can I get?

If you need to hire someone to inspect or repair your septic system, this guide will help you make informed decisions.

Why You Need to Inspect Your Septic System

Failing septic systems and cesspools can contaminate drinking water, shellfish beds, and beaches. Title 5 of the State Environmental Code protects us by requiring inspection of private sewage disposal systems. Local boards of health receive these inspection reports. Most systems will pass inspection. Title 5 requires the replacement or upgrade of systems that fail.

If you own a home with a septic system or cesspool and plan to put it up for sale, add a bedroom, or change its use, you will need to get a system inspection. This information will help you make the right decisions about who to hire and how to finance repairs.

You'd Better Shop Around

When you need to hire a system inspector, there are two important things to remember:

1. MassDEP does not regulate inspection fees, nor does any other state agency. Inspectors can charge whatever their customers are willing to pay. The fee also may vary depending on the complexity of the inspection.
2. Only certain professionals may perform Title 5 system inspections:
   • Professionals who meet experience requirements and have passed a MassDEP-administered exam;
   • Registered Sanitarians;
   • Certified Health Officers; and
   • Registered Professional Engineers who specialize in civil, environmental or sanitary engineering.

For a list of qualified system inspectors in your area, contact your local Board of Health. You can also see lists of approved system inspectors on the New England Interstate Water Pollution Control website.

Before hiring anyone, do some comparison shopping:

• Get written estimates from several inspectors. Ask them whether the price of the inspection includes pumping the system; often it does not.
• Ask for and check each inspector's identification and references.
• Before signing a contract, be certain that it spells out the work plan, the cost and payment terms, and any guarantees the inspector is willing to provide.
• Once the inspection is complete, make sure the person who signs the form is the same person who conducted the inspection.

For information or to make an appointment, contact Morse Engineering and Construction.

Source: mass.gov