Q: I’m looking to buy a property that has an existing structure that hasn’t been used in 12-plus years. It has a well and septic but the status and placement of the septic system is unknown.

A: A well-designed and maintained conventional septic system should provide 20 to 30 years of service before the drain field needs to be replaced. A lightly used system could last a lot longer.

There is no foolproof way to determine how many years of life you can expect from a functioning system, but a thorough inspection can determine whether the system is currently working properly. If not, you can identify what type of immediate repairs and improvements are needed to fix the system and bring it up to current standards. Since a complete new system can cost several thousand dollars, and an “alternative” system can cost even more, hiring a professional to inspect the would be money well spent.

The first step is to find out as much as you can from the previous owner and the local health department. Ask:

• When was the system installed?
• Was the system properly designed, permitted, and inspected by the town or county?
• How often was the septic tank pumped?
• Does the health department have an “as-built” plan on file that would show the design and location of the components?

Also ask the local health department what type of inspection and/or upgrade might be required by the town upon transfer of title. If the septic systems has to be brought up to the current building codes when the property is sold, this can mean building a new system from scratch. In that case, a perc test and deep-hole test are in order to determine the soil conditions and seasonal high water table.

Assuming that the current system can be reused, your preliminary research will give you a better idea of the age and condition of the system, as well as its location on the site. A visual inspection of the site can sometimes identify obvious problems such as trees or traffic over the leach field or wet, smelly soil over a failed leach field.

A professional inspector can examine the septic tank for leakage of groundwater into the tank or leakage out of the tank, both of which can cause problems.

For more information, contact Morse Engineering and Construction.

Source: buildingadvisor

If your problem is a high water table or poorly drained soil, you may still be allowed to build a mound septic system or other type of alternative septic system. These cost more to install and maintain than a conventional gravity system, but are the only option on many building sites. Always choose a system with a well- established track record and the fewest moving parts.

In some cases, you may be allowed to “dewater” a wet site around the drain field using an system of perforated pipes and gravel drains that direct water away from the area. This effectively lowers the water table under and around the drain field. Replacing poorly drained native soil with engineered fill may also be an option in some jurisdictions. These types of engineered solutions require expert design and installation as well the cooperation of the regulating authorities.

Wetlands & Flood Zones

If the proposed drain field site is classified as a wetlands or flood zone, then you will need to look elsewhere. Also you do not want place the drain field in the drainage path of roof and yard water. This can lead to flooding of the drain field as well as erosion. On the other hand, a well-designed septic system that is properly maintained can function well for decades.

For more information, contact Morse Engineering and Construction.

Source: buildingadvisor

Q: How can you tell if land is too wet for a septic system? Can an area be covered with a tarp during the wet season to help it pass the perc test?

A: Wet sites are challenging for septic system design and for home building in general. If the seasonal high water table is too close to the surface – less than three feet below the gravel trenches in the drain field – then most jurisdictions will not allow a conventional septic system. They are concerned about inadequate treatment of the sewage and possible contamination of groundwater.

If the depth of the groundwater is not an issue, but the soil is saturated from spring conditions such as rain and snowmelt, then you should still pass the perc test as long as the soil is sufficiently porous. Many towns require that the test be done in the wetter seasons in order to test under worst-case conditions. Also, test procedures typically require soaking the hold overnight to saturate the soil. The slower absorption is factored into the test.

Undisturbed Soil

Tarping the soil to keep it drier might improve the test results, but most agencies that regulate septic systems would consider this a form of soil modification and would not permit it. You would need to contact your local health department for an authoritative answer.

In general, septic system regulations require that perc tests be performed on “undisturbed” soil that has not been filled, graded, treated, replaced, or otherwise modified in any way that would alter its drainage characteristics.

A better approach would be to test the soil at the driest time of the year that is acceptable to the local authorities – certainly not after a week of rain. Drier weather would tend to increase the absorption rate of the soil, but will not change the location of the seasonal high water table, which is usually determined by visual inspection of the soil during the “deep hole” test.

One thing to keep in mind is that a site tested only in the dry season – and without proper saturation of the test hole – may result in a fair-weather septic system. The drain field may not function properly during the wettest parts of the year. You want a septic system with ample capacity year-round and for years into the future. Any effort to “cheat” the perc test could backfire on you in a most unpleasant and expensive fashion.

For more information, contact Morse Engineering and Construction.

Source: buildingadvisor

Failing Septic Systems

How can I prevent a septic system failure?

• Regular maintenance is the best method to prevent a septic system failure. Septic maintenance includes inspecting the entire system every 1 to 3 years and pumping the tank every 3 to 5 years. The frequency for pumping the septic tank depends on the tank size, number of people in the household, the water habits and use, if a garbage disposal is used, and the amount of solids accumulated in the tank. A rule of thumb is to pump the tank when the solids are two-thirds of the volume in the tank. Routine maintenance is the responsibility of the home or property owner. If you rent a home, you have responsibility for the proper use and operation of the system.
• In general, you can avoid a septic system failure by:
  • Inspecting your system every 1 to 3 years
  • Pumping the tank every 3 to 5 years or as needed
  • Avoiding excess water use (e.g. spreading out laundry use over the week)
  • Flushing only human waste and toilet paper down the toilet.

What are common signs of a failing septic system?

• Water and sewage from toilets, drains, and sinks backing up into the home’s plumbing
• Bathtubs, showers, and sinks draining very slowly
• Gurgling sounds in the plumbing system
• Standing water or damp spots near or over the septic tank or drainfield
• Sewage odors around the septic tank or drainfield
• Bright green, spongy lush grass over the septic tank or drainfield, even during dry weather
• Straight pipe discharging untreated wastewater to the ground surface
• Algae blooms in nearby lakes or waterbodies
• High levels of nitrates or coliform bacteria in surface waters or drinking water wells

Do you need a new septic system? Contact Morse Engineering and Construction.

Source: EPA.GOV>