Massachusetts has strict rules for septic system placement, aimed at protecting the state’s abundant natural resources.

Title 5 Regulations: Title 5 prescribes minimum setbacks, system sizing based on bedroom count, and other criteria. For example, systems must be set at least 100 feet from private wells, 50 feet from wetlands, and 10 feet from property boundaries. Consult your local Board of Health for any town-specific bylaws that may be more restrictive than state requirements.

Permitting Process: After site evaluation, an engineer or licensed designer prepares a septic system design, which must be submitted to the local Board of Health for review and approval. The permitting process typically includes public hearings and may require additional documentation if the site is near sensitive resources.

Variances: In some cases, a property may not meet all Title 5 standards due to site constraints. Homeowners can apply for variances, but these are reviewed on a case-by-case basis and often require justification, mitigation measures, and additional oversight.

For more information, contact Morse Engineering and Construction.

Here’s a step-by-step guide for homeowners and landowners embarking on septic system planning in Massachusetts:

• Hire a licensed soil evaluator to conduct site and soil tests.
• Consult a septic system designer or engineer familiar with state and local regulations.
• Work with your designer to develop a site plan that meets all setback, sizing, and reserve area requirements.
• Submit the plan for review to your local Board of Health and, if applicable, the Conservation Commission.
• Address any feedback or requests for revisions from regulators.
• Once approved, hire a licensed installer to construct the system in accordance with the approved plan.
• Schedule inspections as required by Title 5 and local authorities during and after installation.
• Maintain records of the system design, installation, and any maintenance or repairs for future reference and resale.

For more information, contact Morse Engineering and Construction.

Q: I’m looking to buy a property that has an existing structure that hasn’t been used in 12-plus years. It has a well and septic but the status and placement of the septic system is unknown.

A: A well-designed and maintained conventional septic system should provide 20 to 30 years of service before the drain field needs to be replaced. A lightly used system could last a lot longer.

There is no foolproof way to determine how many years of life you can expect from a functioning system, but a thorough inspection can determine whether the system is currently working properly. If not, you can identify what type of immediate repairs and improvements are needed to fix the system and bring it up to current standards. Since a complete new system can cost several thousand dollars, and an “alternative” system can cost even more, hiring a professional to inspect the would be money well spent.

The first step is to find out as much as you can from the previous owner and the local health department. Ask:

• When was the system installed?
• Was the system properly designed, permitted, and inspected by the town or county?
• How often was the septic tank pumped?
• Does the health department have an “as-built” plan on file that would show the design and location of the components?

Also ask the local health department what type of inspection and/or upgrade might be required by the town upon transfer of title. If the septic systems has to be brought up to the current building codes when the property is sold, this can mean building a new system from scratch. In that case, a perc test and deep-hole test are in order to determine the soil conditions and seasonal high water table.

Assuming that the current system can be reused, your preliminary research will give you a better idea of the age and condition of the system, as well as its location on the site. A visual inspection of the site can sometimes identify obvious problems such as trees or traffic over the leach field or wet, smelly soil over a failed leach field.

A professional inspector can examine the septic tank for leakage of groundwater into the tank or leakage out of the tank, both of which can cause problems.

For more information, contact Morse Engineering and Construction.

Source: buildingadvisor

If your problem is a high water table or poorly drained soil, you may still be allowed to build a mound septic system or other type of alternative septic system. These cost more to install and maintain than a conventional gravity system, but are the only option on many building sites. Always choose a system with a well- established track record and the fewest moving parts.

In some cases, you may be allowed to “dewater” a wet site around the drain field using an system of perforated pipes and gravel drains that direct water away from the area. This effectively lowers the water table under and around the drain field. Replacing poorly drained native soil with engineered fill may also be an option in some jurisdictions. These types of engineered solutions require expert design and installation as well the cooperation of the regulating authorities.

Wetlands & Flood Zones

If the proposed drain field site is classified as a wetlands or flood zone, then you will need to look elsewhere. Also you do not want place the drain field in the drainage path of roof and yard water. This can lead to flooding of the drain field as well as erosion. On the other hand, a well-designed septic system that is properly maintained can function well for decades.

For more information, contact Morse Engineering and Construction.

Source: buildingadvisor

Q: How can you tell if land is too wet for a septic system? Can an area be covered with a tarp during the wet season to help it pass the perc test?

A: Wet sites are challenging for septic system design and for home building in general. If the seasonal high water table is too close to the surface – less than three feet below the gravel trenches in the drain field – then most jurisdictions will not allow a conventional septic system. They are concerned about inadequate treatment of the sewage and possible contamination of groundwater.

If the depth of the groundwater is not an issue, but the soil is saturated from spring conditions such as rain and snowmelt, then you should still pass the perc test as long as the soil is sufficiently porous. Many towns require that the test be done in the wetter seasons in order to test under worst-case conditions. Also, test procedures typically require soaking the hold overnight to saturate the soil. The slower absorption is factored into the test.

Undisturbed Soil

Tarping the soil to keep it drier might improve the test results, but most agencies that regulate septic systems would consider this a form of soil modification and would not permit it. You would need to contact your local health department for an authoritative answer.

In general, septic system regulations require that perc tests be performed on “undisturbed” soil that has not been filled, graded, treated, replaced, or otherwise modified in any way that would alter its drainage characteristics.

A better approach would be to test the soil at the driest time of the year that is acceptable to the local authorities – certainly not after a week of rain. Drier weather would tend to increase the absorption rate of the soil, but will not change the location of the seasonal high water table, which is usually determined by visual inspection of the soil during the “deep hole” test.

One thing to keep in mind is that a site tested only in the dry season – and without proper saturation of the test hole – may result in a fair-weather septic system. The drain field may not function properly during the wettest parts of the year. You want a septic system with ample capacity year-round and for years into the future. Any effort to “cheat” the perc test could backfire on you in a most unpleasant and expensive fashion.

For more information, contact Morse Engineering and Construction.

Source: buildingadvisor

Failing Septic Systems

How can I prevent a septic system failure?

• Regular maintenance is the best method to prevent a septic system failure. Septic maintenance includes inspecting the entire system every 1 to 3 years and pumping the tank every 3 to 5 years. The frequency for pumping the septic tank depends on the tank size, number of people in the household, the water habits and use, if a garbage disposal is used, and the amount of solids accumulated in the tank. A rule of thumb is to pump the tank when the solids are two-thirds of the volume in the tank. Routine maintenance is the responsibility of the home or property owner. If you rent a home, you have responsibility for the proper use and operation of the system.
• In general, you can avoid a septic system failure by:
  • Inspecting your system every 1 to 3 years
  • Pumping the tank every 3 to 5 years or as needed
  • Avoiding excess water use (e.g. spreading out laundry use over the week)
  • Flushing only human waste and toilet paper down the toilet.

What are common signs of a failing septic system?

• Water and sewage from toilets, drains, and sinks backing up into the home’s plumbing
• Bathtubs, showers, and sinks draining very slowly
• Gurgling sounds in the plumbing system
• Standing water or damp spots near or over the septic tank or drainfield
• Sewage odors around the septic tank or drainfield
• Bright green, spongy lush grass over the septic tank or drainfield, even during dry weather
• Straight pipe discharging untreated wastewater to the ground surface
• Algae blooms in nearby lakes or waterbodies
• High levels of nitrates or coliform bacteria in surface waters or drinking water wells

Do you need a new septic system? Contact Morse Engineering and Construction.

Source: EPA.GOV>

Does my new home have a septic system? How do I find it?

You most likely have a septic system if:

• You are on well water;
• The water line coming into your house does not have a meter;
• Your neighbors have a septic system; or,
• You live in a rural area.
• You can find your septic system by:
• Looking at the “as built” drawing for your home’s septic system, which you can request from your local (e.g., town, county, or state) health department’s records;
• Checking your yard for inspection caps, lids, or manhole covers;
• Working with a septic system service provider, who can help locate the system; and,
• Asking the seller or realtor.

For more information, contact Morse Engineering and Construction.

Buying a home is one of the biggest investments you will make, so you want to avoid any surprises after you purchase the home. Just like your furnace, the septic system is expensive to repair or replace so you want it to be in good condition when you buy the home. Have the system inspected by a septic system service provider before you purchase a home. Inspections may be required by your local or state government or by your mortgage lender. Inspection results can help you decide if the home is right for you.

What should happen during a septic system inspection?

The inspector will check for the following:

• Pumping and maintenance records;
• The age of the septic system;
• Sludge levels and scum thickness in the tank;
• Signs of leakage, such as low water levels in the tank;
• Signs of backup, such as staining in the tank above the outlet pipe;
• Integrity of the tank, inlet, and outlet pipes;
• The drainfield, for signs of system failure like standing water;
• The distribution box, to make sure drain lines are receiving equal flow; and
• Available records, to ensure the system complies with local regulations regarding function and location.

For more information, contact Morse Engineering and Construction.

Source: EPA.gov

The national average cost for a septic tank installation is $6,000, according to home improvement network and information site Angi, and odds are, you’ll spend somewhere between $5,000 to $12,000.

Depending on the size and location of your home, as well as the size and material of your tank and your preferred type of septic system, you may find yourself paying even more. HomeAdvisor reports that aerobic septic systems, which use oxygen-loving bacteria to break down waste and require an air pump and more than one tank, can cost up to $20,000 to install.

Septic Tank Prices by Type

A septic tank can be made of four types of material:

• Concrete. This is the most common septic tank material and can last decades, which would make getting one a no-brainer, but it is prone to cracking. Concrete septic tanks prices range from $700 to $2,000, according to Angi.
• Plastic. This is a less expensive material, but plastic is lightweight, and that can lead to structural damage. Plastic septic tank prices range from $500 to $2,500.
• Fiberglass. While unlikely to crack or rust, fiberglass is a lightweight material that can be susceptible to structural damage during installation or if the tanks shift in the soil from the original position. Fiberglass septic tank prices range from $1,200 to $2,000.
• Steel. Steel can rust and the cover may corrode over time, which becomes a safety hazard in your yard. Steel is the least popular material used today; manufacturers and installers generally won’t even touch them. You may have a steel septic tank buried in your yard, but it's unlikely you will be able to purchase one.

For more information, contact Morse Engineering and Construction.

Source: realestate.usnews.com

With proper maintenance, a septic system can last as long as 40 years, and some concrete septic tanks may last 100 years. But for that to happen, you can't ignore your septic tank.

The EPA estimates you’ll spend between $250 and $500 to service your septic tank every three years. The EPA suggests that repairing or replacing your septic tank (which is more likely to happen if you don't service it) could cost between $5,000 and $15,000.

Sometimes repairs are needed because the homeowner has been careless.

The most common reason homeowners have their septic tank backup is due to flushing items like wet wipes and feminine products. While some shrug off not flushing those items, it really is a rule that should be followed to a T.

Some wet wipe manufacturers market them as flushable and safe for septic tanks and septic systems, but it’s probably safest to be skeptical about these claims.

You will occasionally need your septic tank pumped, in addition to other maintenance, and the frequency depends on the size of your house. Some experts recommend that a home septic be pumped every three to five years. The cost of septic tank pumping is $550 on average, but it can cost between $175 and $1,600 or more depending on how large your tank is and your geographic location.

If you notice issues with your plumbing or experience water backing up into the home, call a plumber to diagnose the issue. It may be a clogged pipe, but it could also indicate a problem with your drain field, a cracked or damaged septic tank, excess water in the tank or items and chemicals in your septic tank that should not have gone down the drain.

For more information, contact Morse Engineering and Construction.

Source: realestate.usnews.com