Before you contact a septic system installer, you'll need to check with your local governing body, such as the city or county, to see what is required to obtain a permit for the installation.

In many places, the local planning board or board of health will have a list of licensed engineers to choose from to design a septic system. The engineer's plans – which take into account the water table, underground water lines, wells and required setbacks from neighbors' property lines – will then go before the local governing board for approval.

Once any plans are approved, you can take the plans to different septic installers for pricing and guidance.

The total cost of your septic system installation varies based on your house, the size of your property, nearest flood plain, soil, preferred tank material and myriad other details. To find out the true cost of your installation, you’ll need to get an estimate. A septic installation professional will likely want to visit your property, take measurements and examine any issues if you’re looking to replace any part of your current septic system.

Reach out to multiple local septic installation or replacement companies to get a few estimates based on the details of your home. While multiple professional visits for estimates may seem like a lot, the knowledge you gain from each conversation can help you decide which company offers the best materials and timeline for you – not just which company offers the lowest price.

For more information, contact Morse Engineering and Construction.

Source: realestate.usnews.com

The amount of time it takes to install a septic tank varies based on the weather, type of soil and other factors. Heavy rains saturating the soil will delay an installation, and rocky ground can also slow the process.

Where you install that septic tank really matters, and if you’re buying a home with a septic tank, you’ll want to do your homework to make sure it’s not going to create issues for you later.

Location is hugely important. A lot of buyers don't realize how much the surrounding soil composition and drainage can impact things. That's why it is recommended to potential buyers that they schedule a soil percolation test during their inspection period.

A soil percolation test will provide crucial information about whether the soil can adequately support a septic system, or if expensive upgrades like adding additional drain field lines or a sand filter may be necessary.

These types of fixes can cost tens of thousands and are definitely something buyers need to find out about before officially purchasing.

For more information, contact Morse Engineering and Construction.

Source: realestate.usnews.com

First of all, nobody should be scared of buying a house with a septic tank. One out of every five homes has a septic tank, according to the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency.

But you do want to learn about them before you buy a house with a septic tank, and one good way to do that is to have yours inspected. You may have to separate this from your actual home inspection.

A septic inspection is not typically included in an overall house inspection.

Reach out to a septic tank cleaning company and scheduling an inspection before buying the house. You also will want the septic field inspected.

Septic field? Yes, there are septic tanks and septic fields. Both should be considered. Septic fields are the area where the waste drains to. This usually occurs on large properties. Over time, septic fields may become less efficient or too saturated, thereby requiring a second field to be approved by the local town.

While you’re at it, take a look at your trees and where they are in relation to your septic tank. Tree roots can damage a septic tank.

Even if the tree is not directly above the septic tank, they’re attracted to moisture and the waste nutrients.

For more information on septic system inspections, contact Morse Engineering and Construction.

Source: realestate.usnews.com

If you are replacing or installing a septic system, you’ll need to know how big your septic tank should be, which is based on the size of your house. It often breaks down in this way:

A 500-gallon tank generally is for a one-bedroom house.
A 750-gallon tank tends to be perfect for a home with two bedrooms.
1,000-gallon septic tanks are advised for a home with three or four bedrooms.
1,200-gallon septic tanks are needed for a house with five or six bedrooms.

For a septic tank under 1,000 gallons, the tank itself will likely cost between $500 and $1,200, according to HomeAdvisor, while a tank that's 1,000 gallons is more likely to cost $900 to $1,500. A septic tank that is 1,200 gallons will likely run you as much as $1,600.

You really need to research what you’re buying.

There are so many factors that go into septic systems. One thing that should always be stressed is that not all septic systems are created equal. Some are very straightforward gravity flow systems that are inexpensive to operate for years to come. However, other properties may require more complex pumped systems that involve electric pumps and higher maintenance costs long term. It's so important for buyers to understand exactly what type of septic they're dealing with early on.

For more information, contact Morse Engineering and Construction.

Source: realestate.usnews.com

To start, let's look at conventional vs. alternative septic systems.

Standard Septic Systems

In a conventional septic system, gravity carries wastewater from the house into the septic tank and then to the drainfield. Water pools in the tank long enough for ingredients to separate.

The greases and oils that rise to the top as scum and the solids that sink to the bottom as sludge both get removed by a septic pumping company every few years and carted to an approved disposal site. The actual frequency of pumping depends on the tank size and household usage.

The relatively clear water in the middle flows out to the drainfield. This area must be kept free of trees and shrubs so their roots don’t damage it. The drainfield consists of perforated pipes or drain tiles buried in trenches or set on a gravel bed one to three feet below the surface (though some estimates suggest two to four feet, so check your local regulations). As water trickles out of the pipes, the soil and its microbes act as natural filters to clean the water.

Installing a new standard septic system can cost between $3,500 and $8,500, depending on your living location. But it’s not an option for every lot. Public health departments require a certain square footage of open land that's level with or downhill from the house for a standard-system permit. In some states, a state environmental agency handles such matters.

Alternative (Engineered) Septic Systems

Where the soil type, the property size, or proximity to a wetland prohibits a standard system, you’ll need an alternative system. That would be a system with an enhanced septic tank, drainfield, or both. These cost more to install than basic systems, but the prices vary widely, depending on your site, your local environmental codes, and the technology you need.

The following alternative systems help to purify the water more before it gets to the drainfield. That way, you can get by with a smaller drainfield — one in soil that doesn’t drain well — or a site that’s close to a lake or stream and therefore must meet stricter environmental standards.

Aerobic Septic Systems

An aerobic treatment unit installed can cost $10,000 to 20,000. They mix air into the wastewater, which allows oxygen-loving bacteria to flourish. They break down solids much more quickly than the anaerobic bacteria in standard septic tanks, so cleaner water goes into the drainfield. Some units also disinfect the fluid with chlorine or ultraviolet light. That’s an advantage if you live near water, where you may face tighter environmental standards on what your system releases. An aerobic unit can serve as a substitute for a septic tank or work in concert with one.

Sand Filter

Installing a sand filter septic can cost $7,000 to 15,000 and works in conjunction with your tank or aerobic treatment unit. The filter consists of a large buried or above-ground box filled with sand. A pump tank releases the partially clarified water to the top of the sand in measured doses. Water then trickles through the sand before moving into the drainfield. A bottomless sand filter takes things a step further: It doubles as a drainfield alternative by allowing the fluids to pass into the ground underneath.

Drainfield Alternatives

The other main category of alternative treatment systems — which also can be used in conjunction with or instead of standard equipment, depending on your situation — focuses on the drainfield end of the process. These systems help water disperse safely even where soil conditions aren’t great or where there isn’t enough open space for a standard drainfield.

Mound System

A mound system can cost $10,000 to 20,000. A mound septic system is a pile of trucked-in sand and gravel with a drainfield buried inside. It’s used where the soil is thin or has too much clay, or where the water table is too high. Disguising a mound is a major landscaping challenge, especially since you can’t use trees or shrubs, which might have invasive roots.

Drip Irrigation

This type of alternative septic system can cost $6,500 to $15,000. It's a shallow drainfield where water trickles out over a wide area in measured doses from a pump chamber. Installers can snake the flexible piping around trees and shrubs, which makes it easier to fit the drainfield into an established landscape. Because the piping is just six inches to eight inches below ground, though, you might need to purify the water first, perhaps with an aerobic unit. You’ll also need a filter and regular maintenance to keep the system from clogging.

For more information, contact Morse Engineering and Construction.

Source: houselogic.com

If you are about to purchase a new home with a septic system, this homebuyer guide is for you! This guide provides information homebuyers need to know before purchasing a home with a septic system (also known as an onsite wastewater system), how a septic system works, and the importance of having it inspected prior to purchasing a home. In addition, this guide provides information on everyday, preventative, and corrective maintenance for when you are living in your new home. For additional information, contact your local health department, real estate agent or visit www.epa.gov/septic.

Septic System Type

Some septic systems are simple while others are more extensive and complicated. As a result, labor and material costs will vary depending on the simplicity or complexity of the septic tank system.

Septic Tank Material

Septic tanks are generally made from plastic, concrete or fiberglass.

A plastic septic tank is watertight and stands up to rust and corrosion. It’s also the most affordable option; it will cost $150 to $2,000 to repair, though due to its flexibility, you likely won’t have to worry about it cracking.

A concrete septic tank is heavy and can hang in there for the long haul if corrosion doesn’t get in the way; it will cost $500 to $5,000 to repair.

A fiberglass tank will offer excellent resistance to cracking and rusting, though because it’s so lightweight, it might be damaged during installation. A fiberglass septic tank costs $750 to $7,500 to repair.

Septic Tank Size

Like with most household systems, the larger your septic tank is, the more expensive it will be to repair or replace it. A 1,000-gallon septic tank, which is an appropriate size for a three- to four-bedroom home, will cost $900 to $1,500; installation costs will bring it up to $1,500 to $4,000.For more information contact

Morse Engineering and Construction.

Source: forbes.com

Typically, you'll want to contact a licensed septic inspector or a professional septic service company to schedule an inspection. Consider getting recommendations from local friends, family or neighbors for contractors who work with septic systems. Make sure to check an inspector's credentials to see if they are certified and compliant with regulations. Membership in professional organizations such as NACHI, ASHI, or NAHI, is a good sign too.

Before the inspector arrives, you can do several things to support a smooth and efficient septic inspection process. Start by locating your septic system's design records; these documents provide valuable information about the layout and size of your system.

If you're planning to purchase a home, you may assume a septic inspection is part of your standard home inspection, but this isn't always the case. Most home inspectors aren't going to check if the septic system of your prospective home is running properly. You may need to pay extra for a simple visual inspection.

Aspiring homeowners are better off bringing in a septic inspector who’s properly qualified to check if the septic system is operating as it should.

Follow This Pre-inspection Checklist

Here's a quick checklist to guide you:

• Locate and provide septic system design records.
• List any signs of system issues (for example, slow draining, odors).
• Clear the area around the septic tank and drain field.
• Refrain from pumping out the tank right before the inspection, as this can mask issues.
• These steps will help you get an accurate assessment of your septic system's health.

For more information contact Morse Engineering and Construction.

Source: houselogic.com

Knowing how to prepare for and what to expect during a septic system inspection can help you check that the process matches your expectations.

Septic Tank Inspections: A Step-by-Step Guide

Initially, the inspector will review the history of your septic system, including any maintenance records you have. This provides a baseline for evaluating the current state of your system.

The inspector will follow these steps:

1. Initial assessment: The septic inspector will review the septic system's history and maintenance records.
2. System location and access: Next, the inspector will locate and uncover access points to the septic tank.
3. Tank examination: Along with checking the tank for leaks, corrosion, and levels of scum and sludge, the inspector will check if the tank needs to be pumped.
4. Pipe and mechanism inspection: Next, the inspector will check the pipes and mechanisms for damage or blockages. They'll also assess the condition of the septic tank effluent filter if your system has one.
5. Drain field evaluation: Lastly, your inspector will evaluate the drain field's absorption capability and look for signs of failure (such as standing water or improper drainage)
6. Optional dye test: The inspector may conduct a dye test to detect leaks or system failures.

After the physical inspection, the inspector will discuss the findings with you. They'll point out any immediate concerns or potential future issues.

For more information, contact Morse Engineering and Construction.

Source: houselogic.com

Handle problems when they arise by checking:

1. The Water Level

If you find sewage in your house, lift the lid of the septic tank and check the water level or call a septic tank pumping company to do this for you. If the water is lower than the outlet, the pipe between the house and tank might be clogged. In that case, call a plumber.

2. The Septic Tank Level

If the level is higher than the outlet, the problem might be the tank. Have your tank pumped. That way, you’ll have time to figure out what to do next and allow the pumping company to check for an obvious problem, such as a clogged screen at the outlet.

3. The Saturation Level in the Drainfield

If flooding has saturated the drainfield, however, wait to pump. Emptying the tank may cause the tank to float, breaking the pipes. Take precautions as you clean up the mess in your house, so you don’t get sick. As outlined by the EPA, if your septic system floods, minimize contact with sewage; wear gloves, shields, and long sleeves; and get extra support from your local health department.

4. The Drainfield

If the drainfield stinks or is soggy, keep people away from any standing water or soggy soil. There may be a biohazard. If you have young children or pets, you might need a temporary fence. Have your septic tank pumped and cut back on water use. These steps should reduce the odor, but aren’t long-term solutions.

Types of Drainfield Failure

When a drainfield fails, it’s often because the septic tank wasn’t pumped often enough. So, follow best practices in caring for your septic system. Sludge and scum layers can grow so thick that little space is left for wastewater to pool while ingredients separate.

This overgrowth lets grease and solids enter and clog the drainfield, causing stinky water to bubble up to the surface. By the time you notice, the damage is done, and the drainfield needs to be replaced.

A drainfield can also fail even if you haven’t done anything wrong. Over time — often 30 years or so — beneficial microbes in the soil around the drainfield can become so abundant that they clog the soil, preventing it from properly absorbing the water, according to Craig Mains of the National Small Flows Clearinghouse, a nonprofit that advises the septic system industry.

If your drainfield is plugged, the only solution is to abandon it and build a new one. The good news is that once you have a replacement drainfield, you’ll never have to build a new drainfield again. Eventually, the bacteria at the old site will die from lack of food and decompose. When the second field plugs someday, you can go back to using the first one.

When to Repair a Septic System

Some problems can be solved relatively easily. For example, standing water or a sewage odor between the septic tank and the drainfield may be nothing more than a broken pipe, a roughly $1,500 repair. If you have an advanced treatment system, the maintenance company might need to adjust or replace a part.

If you have an aerobic treatment unit — which aerates the tank to help speed the breakdown of waste — and were away for a long period, the beneficial bacteria might have died off. You may just need to use your system frugally for a few weeks while the population rebounds.

When to Replace a Septic System

There’s usually no repair for a failed drainfield. You probably need to replace your septic system.

There are many ways to combine treatment and drainfield options, and your decisions can hugely affect costs, as well as landscaping rework and the use of your property in the future. If you want to reserve land for a future garage, for example, you might be willing to spend more on a compact system.

Even if the drainfield needs replacement, the septic tank may be OK. Reusing the tank can save you $1,000 or more — and keep that part of your yard intact. But if moving the tank would solve a landscaping issue or make future pumping easier, now’s the time to do it.

For more information contact Morse Engineering and Construction.

Source: houselogic.com