There are a variety of reasons that sewer smells may be entering a home or business.

These include:

A common reason is the lack of required traps or vents. Every fixture should have a trap and a vent pipe to keep smells from entering the home. If traps and vent pipes are missing, you may need the help of a plumber to install them immediately.

A common reason is broken seals around the toilet that allows water to siphon or dry out the traps and thus allowing smells to enter the home. There could be an air leak at the wax ring of the toilet or in the vent pipe. Rotted or damp wood can also cause the smell. Check to see if the toilet is tightly sealed to the floor. Grab the bowl of the toilet and try to slide it from side to side. It should resist a few pounds of pressure. If the toilet rocks from side to side, the wax ring has failed. You may need the help of a plumber to fix these problems.

A frequent cause for inside odors is a dry trap. Pouring a quart of water into all sinks, showers/tubs and floor drains may correct this problem. All drains to a sewer system have a "P" shaped trap that is usually filled with water. The trap provides a seal to keep out sewer gas. If your basement floor drain is rarely used, water evaporates from the trap over time. Eventually the seal is eliminated, allowing sewer gas (and smell) into your house. The solution is easy: pour water into the drain.

Specifically, the trap under the basin may not be holding enough water and is allowing sewer fumes into the room. You may want to inspect your trap and be sure it holds enough water.

If you have an old "house trap" in your basement the trap may be cracked or broken allowing smells to seep through the cracks and into your home.

If the smell is noticeable mainly around a sink, try flushing a strong cleaner and bleach down the sink's overflow-the small hole(s) inside the bowl near the rim. When the sink fills to near overflowing, water is routed through an inner chamber to the drain. Debris can collect inside the inner chamber, causing odor. There may be a small leak in one of the vent lines of the plumbing system, or a small leak around the base of a toilet or other fixture. You may need the help of a plumber. Check for loose fittings, corrosion, or holes in vent piping. Also, check the top side of horizontal drain pipes. If the top is rusted, it may never leak liquid, but it will leak sewer gas. Drain lines made of copper, steel or cast iron may all exhibit this problem.

If you have older cast iron piping you may be getting smells through cracks in your pipes. This type of piping has a habit of forming a crack along the topside of the pipe over time, and this could be where your smell is coming from. You may need to inspect every inch of piping for cracks or openings where the smell is coming from, and then make the repair from there. If an entire length of pipe is cracked (quite common), you should replace it using PVC drain pipe of the same size, with no-hub couplers to fit the pipe into place.

A frequent cause for inside odors is a clogged vent. You may need the help of a plumber or a handyman to disconnect the vent pipes inside your home and clean your vents all the way through the roof.

Another common problem is the plumbing vent located on the roof. It is necessary to allow the pressure in the drainpipes to equalize as wastewater flows through them. Without this vent, sinks, tubs, and toilets would gurgle, and in some cases, the toilets and drains would act like they were plugged. These plumbing vents can freeze closed during prolonged cold periods or get clogged with leaves or other debris. A warm day or two will thaw out the frozen pipe but leaves will need to be cleaned out. The pipe can be thawed using a high pressure water jetter used for cleaning sewers or warm water.

Down drafts from wind pattern changes can also create odors in the home. The vent may need to be raised which can be accomplished by just adding onto the existing pipe.

If you have question regarding septic odors in your home, contact Morse Engineering and Construction. We may be able to help determine the source. 

Source: pawpaw.net

Septic tanks use special concrete drainage tanks, buried underground in your home's yard, to let waste products from the home decompose naturally. These tanks require a delicate balance of bacteria and enzymes to quickly break down waste, and some home cleaning products and detergents can disturb this balance. Using the right chemicals can prevent expensive tank maintenance and serious health problems.

Natural Drain Cleaners

Drain cleaning and clearing products often contain harsh degreasing agents and other toxic chemicals. These unclogging products can damage your septic tank drain fields by disturbing decomposing grease in the tank. They also can loosen accumulated material on the inside of plumbing pipes and create a clog in the septic system. Natural drain unclogging products include those that use vinegar and baking soda, according to the Kent County, Delaware, Department of Public Works. Pouring a half-cup of baking soda and a cup of vinegar into your clogged drain also can remove the clog through the foaming process of the two safe household materials.

Liquid Laundry Detergents

Powder laundry detergents, even those that claim they are safe for use in septic systems, can create serious clogs in your tank, according to Laundry Alternative. Powders contain granulated plastic and other materials that don't break down fully during the laundry process. When these materials enter your drain pipes and septic tank, they settle or stick to the sides and build up over time. Eventually you have a clog that requires professional removal. Liquid laundry detergents dissolve completely, and many are available with nontoxic and natural ingredients that do not disturb the enzyme balance of the septic field.

Phosphate-Free Dishwasher Detergents

Phosphates are a common surfactant used in all types of detergents, including dishwashing liquids. Flushing high amounts of phosphates into your septic tank can kill bacteria and enzymes used in the waste decomposition process, according to Inspectapedia. Surfactants pollute water and kill fish and other wildlife, and some forms like phosphates can stay intact until they reach an open body of water. Phosphates also cause dangerous algae blooms. Dishwashing detergents rarely disclose exactly how much phosphate is in the product, so choosing a detergent that is completely free of phosphates is the best choice.

Non-Antibacterial Products

Overuse of antibacterial sprays and hand cleaners can disturb your septic tank's performance, according to the Arizona Cooperative Extension. Products containing bleach are also problematic. Toilet bowl cleaners, sink or bathtub sprays and hand soaps all contribute to the destruction of beneficial bacteria in the septic tank. Limit the use of antibacterial and bleach-based cleaners to keep your septic tank healthy.

For more information on septic tank care, maintenance, and repair, contact Morse Engineering and Construction.

Source: hunker.com

We get this question a lot. It is important to know that regular maintenance is the most important thing in making sure your septic system works well.

Regular pumping helps prevent solids from escaping into the drainfield and clogging soil pores. While pumping frequency is a function of use, MassDEP recommends that systems be pumped at least once every three years for homes not having a garbage disposal. If the home's system has a garbage disposal, it should be pumped every year.

If you are a nonresidential system owner, you should determine how often to pump based on prior accumulation and pumping records. Often you can look at pumping intervals to gauge your pumping schedule (i.e., previously did you wait too long before having your tank pumped and it was filled to capacity, or could you have waited a little longer to pump?).

An amazing number of system owners believe that if they haven't had any problems with their systems, they don't need to pump out their tanks. Unfortunately this is a serious and sometimes costly misconception. As your system is used, solid materials settle to the bottom of the tank, forming a sludge layer. Grease and lightweight materials float to the surface of the septic tank as scum.

Normally, properly designed tanks have enough space for up to three to five years' safe accumulation of sludge. When the sludge level increases beyond this point, sewage has less time to settle properly before leaving the tank. As the sludge level increases, more solid wastes escape into the soil absorption system (SAS). If the SAS becomes so clogged that it cannot absorb liquid at the rate at which it enters the tank, the plumbing will "back up" or unsanitary wastewater will bubble to the surface.

When hiring a pumper, be sure the local Board of Health has licensed them, and always make sure you get a paid receipt from the pumper that spells out the details of the transaction (how many gallons were pumped out of the tank, the date, the charges, and any other pertinent results). Retain this receipt for your records. The pumper sends a copy of this report to the local Board of Health.

For more information, contact Morse Engineering and Construction.

mass.gov

Whether you're building a new septic system or upgrading an existing one, there are Title 5 requirements that apply to new construction. If you are building a new septic system (including a conventional septic system or an innovative/alternative (I/A) system) or upgrading an existing one, there are Title 5 requirements that must be followed in order to prevent damage to human health and the environment. Whether or not you are the person actually doing the construction, it is always the system owner's responsibility to ensure things are done in accordance with Title 5 regulations. If you have questions related to building or expanding a new Title 5 system, you should contact your local Board of Health directly as they are the primary regulatory authority for new construction.

Bear in mind that building a new septic system or upgrading an existing one is very different from repairing a system that has failed. If your septic system has failed, you need to take action to fix it. Failing septic systems are expensive to repair or replace, and poor maintenance is often the culprit. Check with a septic system professional or your local Board of Health if you have problems with your system. If you have financial hardship, you may want to look at opportunities for financial assistance.

For new construction of a system, the first step is to go to your local Board of Health as well as your local Building Department. You will need to obtain permits from both separately. You should initially provide each department with a verbal explanation of what you're proposing.

In your initial conversation with the Board of Health and Building Department, it is important to ask them what Title 5 requirements and local requirements must be complied with in your particular case, and what specific approvals are needed from them. Both Departments will give you applications to be completed and returned. Once the Board of Health and Building Department have approved your applications, they will send you a letter in writing that either a) approves the request, b) approves the request but with specific conditions that must be met or c) denies the request.

Also, the Board of Health will tell you whether MassDEP has to approve any of the applications. MassDEP reviews an application only after the Board of Health has made a final decision. You must ensure that all of the necessary approvals from the Board of Health, the Building Department, and MassDEP, if appropriate, are received before you or anyone else begins any work.

Depending on the type of work you're proposing and approved for, you may need to hire a licensed system inspector to verify the location of system components, and perform the necessary work. There can be a variety of professionals involved: designer, soil evaluator, installer, inspector. However, even if you've hired a licensed inspector or system designer to do the work, you as the system owner are always responsible for your system. As work is being completed, you should be getting regular and detailed information and receipts from the professionals you've hired. For more information, refer to the Local Septic Management Homeowner Checklist.

If you have specific questions, contact Morse Engineering and Construction.

Source: mass.gov

Common septic tank pumping frequency mistakes

Failure to pump the septic tank frequently enough: leading to an early drainfield failure and costly repairs

Pumping or cleaning the septic tank too frequently, wasting money (though you're wasting a lot less money than the cost of a new drainfield.

Some septic pumping contractors and some other "experts" give a fixed rule of thumb that serves their own interest, such as "pump your septic tank every year" or "pump your septic tank every two years".

Contractors may give this advice without first having actually considered any information about the septic system capacity, level of usage, age, or other conditions. It's a great example of "OPM" or "other people's money" - spending someone else's money to reduce your risk that they'll complain that your advice wasn't safe enough.

Pumping the septic tank with the fantasy that doing so will "fix" a clogged or failed drainfield. All you really gain is a few days of toilet flushing before the tank has re-filled.

Actually inspecting the septic system, diagnosing any problems or failures, and inspecting conditions inside the septic tank will tell us whether the tank is being pumped at the correct frequency.

The removal of septic waste by cleaning the septic tank is a critical step in septic system care as it extends the life of the septic field. Even if you don't care how septic systems work you need to know when to clean the septic tank by pumping out septic waste.

For more information on septic system pumping and inspections, contact Morse Engineering and Construction.

Source: inspectapedia.com

Any owner of a residential property in Massachusetts who occupies the residential property as their principal residence can claim a credit ("Title 5 credit") against personal income tax for certain expenditures associated with the repair or replacement of a failed cesspool or septic system.

The repair or replacement of the failed cesspool or septic system must be made in accordance with the provisions of the State Environmental Code, Title 5.

Who may claim the credit

To claim the Title 5 credit, the taxpayer must be the owner of the residential property, must occupy the property as his or her principal residence, and may not be a dependent of another taxpayer.

An owner is a taxpayer who, alone or together with other persons, has legal title to the residential property. If a residential property has more than one owner who otherwise meets the criteria for claiming the Title 5 credit, each co-owner may claim the credit proportionate to the amount of total qualified expenditures made by each co-owner. The maximum amount of the Title 5 credit that may be claimed by the owner of a residential property is $6000.

The property must be the taxpayer's principal residence.

In general, taxpayers claiming the Title 5 credit will be Massachusetts residents. However, a nonresident owner of Massachusetts residential property who occupies the property as his or her principal residence, and is not the dependent of another taxpayer may claim the Title 5 credit.

For information on replacing failed Septic Systems, contact Morse Engineering and Construction.

Source: mass.gov

Then you'd better shop around.

When you need to hire a septic system inspector, there are two important things to remember:

1. MassDEP does not regulate inspection fees, nor does any other state agency. Inspectors can charge whatever their customers are willing to pay. The fee also may vary depending on the complexity of the inspection.
2. Only certain professionals may perform Title 5 system inspections:
   • Professionals who meet experience requirements and have passed a MassDEP-administered exam;
   • Registered Sanitarians;
   • Certified Health Officers; and
   • Registered Professional Engineers who specialize in civil, environmental or sanitary engineering.

For a list of qualified system inspectors in your area, contact your local Board of Health. You can also see lists of approved system inspectors on the New England Interstate Water Pollution Control website.

• Before hiring anyone, do some comparison shopping:
• Get written estimates from several inspectors. Ask them whether the price of the inspection includes pumping the system; often it does not.
• Ask for and check each inspector's identification and references.
• Before signing a contract, be certain that it spells out the work plan, the cost and payment terms, and any guarantees the inspector is willing to provide.
• Once the inspection is complete, make sure the person who signs the form is the same person who conducted the inspection.

For more information on septic system inspections, contact Morse Engineering and Construction.

Source: mass.gov

One of the best ways to ensure that your septic system will pass inspection is to follow a routine maintenance schedule. You should have the septic system pumped out every three years. If you use a garbage disposal, annual pumping is a must.

A word about septic system additives: There isn't one on the market that can make a failing system pass inspection. MassDEP approves septic system additives, but only to ensure that they will not harm your system or the environment. MassDEP does not check manufacturers' claims about the performance of their products.

Remember that even the best-maintained system in the world cannot last forever. Like anything else, it will wear out over time, stop working properly and need repair or replacement. For more information on septic system inspections, contact Morse Engineering and Construction.

Source: mass.gov

Failing septic systems and cesspools can contaminate drinking water, shellfish beds, and beaches. Title 5 of the State Environmental Code protects us by requiring inspection of private sewage disposal systems. Local boards of health receive these inspection reports. Most systems will pass inspection. Title 5 requires the replacement or upgrade of systems that fail.

If you own a home with a septic system or cesspool and plan to put it up for sale, add a bedroom, or change its use, you will need to get a system inspection. For more information on septic system inspections or upgrading a septic system, contact Morse Engineering and Construction.

mass.gov

Traditional septic systems only work if the soil in the leach area is sufficiently permeable that it can readily absorb the liquid effluent flowing into it. Also, there must be at least a few feet of good soil from the bottom of the leach pipes to the rock or impervious hardpan below, or to the water table.

Less commonly, a site can fail because the soil is too permeable, allowing the effluent to reach the groundwater before it is fully treated. Very steep slopes are also unsuitable for a conventional leach field.

The specific standards vary from town to town, but any of these characteristics can prohibit the use of a standard gravity-fed septic system. In some cases, a more expensive alternative septic system may be allowed. To determine if a building site is suitable for a septic system, a percolation test (typically called a “perc test’ or “perk test”) is required.

NO PERC, NO HOUSE

On rural sites without municipal sewage systems, a failed perc test means that no house can be built – which is why you should make any offer to purchase land contingent on the site passing the soil and perc tests. As prime building sites become increasingly scarce (or prohibitively expensive) in many parts of the country, rural sites that will not pass a percolation or perc test are increasingly common.

In general, soils with high sand and gravel content drain the best and soils with a high clay content or solid rock are the worst. Most soils fall somewhere in the middle with a mix of course sand and gravel particles, small silt particles, and miniscule clay particles – the smallest.

The two main tests used to determine a site’s suitability for a septic system are a perc test and visual observation of the soil in a test pit, sometimes referred to as a deep hole test. Testing requirements vary greatly from state to state and often from town to town, as most states allow individual towns to establish separate rules within state guidelines.

Make sure you talk to your town health officer about what tests are needed, when they can be done, and who should perform them. Whether or not a licensed professional is required, it’s a good idea to hire an seasoned expert with local experience as many of these tests have a bit of wiggle room.

DEEP HOLE TEST

Most evaluations start with a deep hole test dug by machine to well below the bottom of the proposed leach field – often 7 to 10 feet deep or greater. Soil samples may be taken back to the lab, or visual observations of the soil layers may be sufficient.

Soil tests or observations are used to identify the drainage characteristics of the soil, the seasonal high water table, and the depth of the “limiting zone,” where the soil is unsuitable for treating sewage. The high water table is identified visually by looking for “mottling,” splotches or streaks of color in the soil indicating the occasional presence of water.

The limiting zone is defined by upper layer of the water table or impermeable rock or soil. If the limiting zone is too close to the surface to allow for a conventional leach field, then a mound or other alternative septic system may be required. Typically, the water table or impermeable soil must be at least 3 feet below the bottom of the trenches in the leach field.

While most soil experts believe they have enough information at this point to design an effective septic system, most states today also require perc testing to directly measure the rate at which water percolates through the soil. The test measures how fast water drains into a standard-sized hole in the ground. The results determine whether the town will allow a septic system to be installed, and system designers use the results to size the leach field.

PERC TESTING

To conduct a perc test, first talk to the local health department official as requirements can vary significantly from town to town as far as who can conduct the test, the minimum number of holes, depth of holes, required absorption rates, and when the tests can be performed. In general, tests cannot be conducted in frozen or disturbed soil, and some areas only allow tests during certain months of the year – so plan ahead.

Test results are usually good for two to five years, and in some cases can be renewed. However, with all things perc, rules vary greatly from town to town so don’t make any assumptions. Always check with the town health department before proceeding.

OTHER SITE CONDITIONS

Septic system regulations vary widely, but most municipalities require that the leach field meet specific requirements above and beyond the perc test. Some common limiting factors are:

• Steep slope. The maximum allowable slope for a conventional system typically ranges from 20% to 30%.
• Filled land. Native soils are typically required, although engineered fill may be acceptable in some cases.
• Wetlands or flood zones. Not acceptable for leach field.
• Site drainage. The leach field should not be in the path of runoff during rain storms, which could cause erosion or flooding of the system.

SETBACKS & CLEARANCES

Minimum distances are required from the septic tank and leach field to buildings, property lines, water pipes, wells, and open water. On small sites, a variance might be required to allow sufficient space. You may be required to find suitable space for both the active leach field and a replacement field, for use in 20 or 30 years when the original field is exhausted. Clearances vary from one town to another so always check with local codes

OPTIONS IF SITE FAILS

Even if your site fails a perc or deep-hole test, all is not lost. For sites with high water tables, you may be able to “de-water” the leaching area by strategically placing gravel-filled trenches and subsurface drain pipe to conduct water away from the drain field. You’ll need a highly experienced earthwork contractor, and possibly the help of a civil engineer or geotechnical engineer, to make this work.

Also, a wide range of alternative septic systems have been developed in recent years for use on almost any type of site. Find out which systems are approved for use in your area and which might be suitable for your site. In general, these systems cost more and many require pumps, alarms, and other components that require more monitoring and maintenance than a standard septic system. As these become more common and more widely accepted, formerly unbuildable lots may all of a sudden become approved building lots. As with all new building technology, however, look at products and systems with a proven track record in the field.

For more information contact Morse Engineering and Construction.

Source: buildingadvisor.com