A well-maintained septic tank could last 20 to 30 years before it needs a replacement—but rest assured, that day will come. If your septic system is failing, there are usually a few signs. You might need to replace your tank if:

• You notice sewage backing up into toilets, sinks, showers, and bathtubs.
• Your sinks, bathtubs, and showers drain very slowly.
• You see standing water or notice damp spots around your septic tank.
• You smell sewage around your septic tank.
• The grass around your septic tank is noticeably darker or more vibrant than the rest of your lawn and feels spongy (sewage can actually act as fertilizer).

Proper maintenance is the best way to increase the lifespan of your septic system's lifespan. Inspect your system every one to three years and pump your tank every three to five years. If you notice any issues, contact Morse Engineering and Construction.

Source: angi.com

It’s not as simple as just cracking into new ground. There are a lot of moving parts and a little red tape. In a perfect world, you can swap out the tank in around a week—provided you don’t hit a snag. If you need to replace other components in your system along with the tank, expect your local septic tank installation company to tackle the job in four to eight weeks.

This guide will show you how long it takes to replace a septic tank, from planning to your first flush.

Testing Before Installation

Time: Two to Three Weeks

Your septic tank works in conjunction with a leach field, also known as a drain field. If your septic system is leaking waste and contaminating the area around the tank, you’ll need to replace both components—at minimum. If there is extensive damage, you may need a full system replacement. This will push the job into the four- to six-week range (not to mention the cost of a new septic system can exceed $11,000 on the high end).

For this reason, contractors run a percolation test before they replace your tank. This will give them insight into your soil’s texture, volume, consistency, and ability to filter wastewater. It’s an essential part of prep and takes around two to three weeks.

Obtaining Permits

Time: Varies

Before your contractor can replace your septic tank, they’ll need to obtain a permit. Typically, permits are issued by your local health or environmental department—and you’ll typically need one or more building permits. Sometimes, homeowners also need a permit for pumping and disposing of waste if they don’t already have one. Depending on your local government, this could take a few days or weeks and usually require the percolation test and an inspection.

Planning and Excavation

Time: Two to Three Weeks

During this phase, a septic system engineer will plan the replacement. This could be simple if they just need to swap out a tank, but it could take longer if they also need to plan for a new leach field or entirely new system (to dig safely, they’ll need to map out underground utilities).

Once the plans are finished, the excavation begins. A team will need to dig out your old septic tank and any other components that you plan to replace. Overall, planning and excavation takes around two to three weeks, but it could take more or less time. If the ground freezes or the weather is poor, it will push the project back.

Tank Installation

Time: Five to Seven Days

Installation is typically the quickest part of the job. During this phase, your contractor will install your new septic tank and other components. If you’re installing an aerobic tank, this could mean additional electrical circuitry. If you have a pumped system, this could mean replacing the dosing tanks. It all depends on the type of septic system and the condition. Generally, installation takes five to seven days. It could take longer if you hit a snag like poor weather conditions.

For more information, contact Morse Engineering and Construction.

Source: angi.com

Keep these clean water tips in mind to keep everything flowing.

1. Ask Questions

Before buying property with a well and septic system, it’s important to get it inspected and ask questions. You might get lucky and find that the previous owners have records of how the well and septic systems were built and who maintained it. Make sure you:

• Know where the septic tank and drainfield are.
• Know where the wellhead is. It should be uphill and away from the septic system.
• Verify which tests your state requires.

Get the well water professionally tested for total coliform bacteria, nitrates, total dissolved solids, and pH levels. Call your local health office or the EPA to find a certified water testing lab.

2. Test the System Every Year

Even if it’s not required, annual well pump and equipment inspections are a low-cost way to make sure everything is working as expected. A local septic system company can check the pressure in your expansion tank. Your well pump will stop and start more often than necessary without the proper pressure or due to a failing well pump pressure switch, which can lead to premature failure of the pump. A well maintenance company near you can make sure the equipment is in good condition, perform repairs, and check the water quality.

But don’t wait for the annual inspection and call your for service if you:

• Suspect a bacteria problem
• Notice a change in well water pressure or flow
• Notice a change in taste, color, or smell of water
• Notice an increase in construction or industrial activity in your neighborhood

3. Be Careful About What Goes Down the Drain

When living with a septic tank, everything that goes down the drain goes into the septic system, so be careful of what you rinse or flush down your drains.

Keep leftover paint, automotive fluids, and cleaners out of your drains. These products lead to build up that will eventually need to be pumped out. Additionally, they can affect the beneficial bacteria that live in the septic system and make it work. Choose enzyme cleaners when needed to help break down organic material without harming the bacteria at work in the tanks.

4. Avoid Using the Garbage Disposal

Garbage disposals and septic systems don’t get along well. Garbage disposals can allow too much solid matter into the system. It just increases the need for pumping. Scrape plates and cutting boards into a compost pail instead.

A backyard compost solution is a great alternative to a garbage disposal. It keeps kitchen grease, vegetable scraps, and chunks of meat out of your septic system and can provide beneficial nutrients to your vegetable garden.

5. Keep the Lid on the System

The septic system lid needs to stay on at all times, otherwise there’s a risk of people falling in, and it’s not the cool underworld you’ve seen in cartoons—it’s incredibly dangerous. Periodically check on the condition of the lid to make sure it’s secure and not cracked or deteriorated.

Check the wellhead to ensure the well cap and seals are tight. Any vents should have screens to prevent critters from getting in, and the concrete slab must be in good shape to prevent groundwater from collecting around the well.

6. Conserve Water

Using less water is not only a good conservation practice, but it will also extend the life of your system. It’s easy for septic systems to get overloaded, so give them a break and space out water use. Try to avoid doing weeks’ worth of laundry on one Saturday, and certainly don’t drain the hot tub the same weekend.

Your well is going to be affected by the amount of water in the ground. In times of drought, the water table—or the level of the water below ground—is lower. When the water level dips below the pump’s location, it’ll just pumpt air. So conserve groundwater by:

• Taking shorter showers
• Running only full loads of dishes or laundry
• Using the small load setting when the machine isn’t full
• Installing low-flow toilets
• Checking for hidden leaks in your bathroom

7. Protect the Drainfield

The drainfield is the part of the yard where pre-treated water flows through the soil and sediment on its way back to the groundwater. The septic system’s drainfield is a fragile area that needs TLC.

• Don’t drain pools in the drainfield
• Don’t park cars in the area
• Divert rainwater or snowmelt away from the drainfield
• Keep trees 100 feet away from the drainfield. Tree roots invading the septic system can cause backups and damage.
• You can landscape the area with shallow-rooted flowers or grass. But avoid covering the area with plastic weed guards, gravel, or concrete patios.

8. Protect the Well

The drainfield is the part of the yard where pre-treated water flows through the soil and sediment on its way back to the groundwater. The septic system’s drainfield is a fragile area that needs TLC.

• Ideally, the wellhead is located uphill from the septic drainfield, and groundwater does not come into contact with it. Keep animal waste, garden fertilizer, and any other potential contaminants that you wouldn’t want in your drinking water at least 100 feet from the well.
• For more information, contact Morse Engineering and Construction.

Source: angi.com

You may not think about your septic system that often because, gross. But septic neglect can cause major problems if you overlook the system for too long. Regular inspections and maintenance are vital for preventing costly damage to your tank and the surrounding area. It’s a good idea to have your septic tank inspected about every two to five years.

Can I Inspect My Septic Tank Myself?

It’s nearly impossible to inspect your septic tank yourself accurately. This is because a full inspection requires an experienced septic service professional. In some situations, you may need to have your septic tank pumped at the same time that you get it inspected. If it’s been a few years since you’ve last had your septic tank inspected, get in touch with a septic tank company near you to discuss your options.

How a Septic System Inspection Works

Understanding how a septic system works can be a bit tricky, especially if you’ve never owned a home with one before. Some homes are hooked up to a central sewer system that runs wastewater to a central processing facility. Not all homes have this capability. In particular, rural homes often use septic tanks that collect wastewater from your home and then disperse it into a drainage field. Because solids build up in the bottom of the septic tank, it needs to be inspected regularly and pumped every few years.

During a septic system inspection, inspectors will examine the septic tank, the septic distribution box, and the leach field. Inspectors will typically remove the lid of the tank in order to check the water level and make sure that water is flowing properly and that there are no leaks. They’ll also check the level of sludge in the tank to determine whether or not your tank needs to be pumped.

Routine Septic System Maintenance is Key

Proper septic system maintenance can help to prolong the life of your septic system and reduce the likelihood of unpleasant septic system-related messes. In addition to getting your septic system regularly inspected, you should also complete the following maintenance tasks to keep your septic system in good working order:

Be careful what you flush down the drain: Flushing items like sanitary products or bacon grease can back up your septic system.

Pay attention to bad odors: Your septic system does the hard work of breaking down household waste, but if it’s not working the way it should it can lead to some pretty unpleasant smells. Clogged drains, ice buildup, blocked vents, and a full tank can all lead to septic system odor.

Pump regularly: Depending on the size of your household and tank, you’ll need to pump the tank about every three to five years.

Without proper maintenance, you may be on the hook for a new septic system sooner rather than later. The cost of a new septic system is about $3,100 to $9,800. Costs vary depending on the type of system and size of the tank.

If you don’t pump your tank, the sludge builds up at the bottom of your tank will eventually leak into your leach field and back up into your pipes. Without regular pumping and maintenance, your septic tank could fail and need to be replaced. Ask your contractor whether additional maintenance is needed during your septic tank inspection.

For more information, contact Morse Engineering and Construction.

Souce: angi.com

Many factors require homeowners to consider alternative septic systems for small lakeMorse Engineering and Construction front lots. Coping with the limitations of a small leach field on their property prompts them to seek alternative small lot septic systems to safely, effectively and affordably treat their wastewater.

Factors that Limit Leach Field Size

A few of the most common factors that can limit a property’s available leachfield space include: tight property boundaries on a small lot; required setbacks to a well, water body, or property line; large mature trees that inhibit space-clearing for a leach field; existing landscaping considerations; and inadequate soil elevation issues.

Any of these space-limiting factors will compel a homeowner to seek an alternative septic tank solution, since the smaller available leachfield space typically cannot support a traditional septic system.

For example, a small, heavily-wooded lot often contains several mature trees. For waterfront properties, the Shoreline Protection Act requires a tree survey that assigns points based on the height and circumference of each tree, and limits the number of points you can use to cut down trees. This is important for small lot space clearing, since the points-limit often determines the size of the leach field space.

Another example of a small-lot, small-leachfield footprint challenge is the 4-ft setback to the water table required by the New Hampshire Department of Environmental Services unless you use an alternative technology. For traditional septic systems – and some alternative small lot septic systems as well – this can necessitate the creation of soil-mounding to raise up the leach field.

People Often Seek Guidance on Alternative Compact Septic Systems

• When they wish to purchase or build on a small lot with tight setbacks, their real estate agent suggests the need for an alternative septic system that allows for a small leach field.
• When they wish to add bedrooms that will expand their home’s footprint – thus shrinking the property’s available leachfield area – so they ask their designer for a wastewater treatment system that will perform well in the new smaller-footprint leach field.
• When they wish to add bedrooms to an existing residence, without adding to the home’s footprint.

Your property’s value – and the health of your home and family – depends on selecting an efficient, value-engineered wastewater treatment system designed for a small leach field footprint.

For more information on septic design and installation, contact Morse Engineering and Construction.

Source: lakefrontliving.com

Federal Funding Sources, U.S. EPA Programs

EPA Clean Water State Revolving Fund (CWSRF)

Under the CWSRF, EPA provides grants to all 50 states plus Puerto Rico to capitalize state CWSRF loan programs. The CWSRF programs function like environmental infrastructure banks by providing low interest loans to eligible recipients for water infrastructure projects. CWSRF-eligible decentralized wastewater treatment projects include:

• Upgrade (e.g., nutrient removal), repair, or replacement of existing systems:
• Construction/installation of new systems; costs associated with the establishment of a responsible management entity (RME) (e.g., permitting fees, legal fees, etc.); and
• Septage treatment works and pumper trucks to support the proper maintenance of decentralized systems.

States are responsible for the operation of their CWSRF program and for selecting the projects that receive assistance. You can contact your CWSRF state representative to learn more about the application process and eligibility requirements.

Learn about potential state funding sources for your septic system:

• Massachusetts Community Septic Management Program - provides loans through the Massachusetts Water Pollution Abatement Trust to homeowners to fix failing septic systems. Three programs assist onsite septic system owners with wastewater management problems: the Community Septic Management Program, the Homeowner Septic Loan Program, and a tax credit program.
• Title 5/Septic Systems: Financial Assistance Opportunities for System Owners - These programs may help septic-system owners with failing systems.

For more information, contact Morse Engineering and Construction.

EPA.gov

If you are about to purchase a new home with a septic system, the homebuyer's brochure and guide are for you.

These documents provide information homebuyers need to know before purchasing a home with a septic system, how a septic system works, and the importance of having it inspected prior to purchasing a home. The documents also provide information on everyday, preventative, and corrective maintenance for when you are living in your new home.

Click here for the New Homebuyer’s Brochure to Septic Systems

Click here for the New Homebuyer’s Guide to Septic Systems

For more information, contact Morse Engineering and Construction.

Source: EPA.gov  

When you call a septic service provider, he or she will inspect for leaks and examine the scum and sludge layers in your septic tank.

Your septic tank includes a T-shaped outlet which prevents sludge and scum from leaving the tank and traveling to the drainfield area. If the bottom of the scum layer is within six inches of the bottom of the outlet, or if the top of the sludge layer is within 12 inches of the outlet, your tank will need to be pumped.

Remember to note the sludge and scum levels determined by the septic professional in your operation and maintenance records, as this will help determine how often pumping is necessary.

The service provider should note any repairs completed and the tank condition in your system’s service report. If additional repairs are recommended, be sure to hire someone to make them as soon as possible.

The National Onsite Wastewater Recycling Association (NOWRA) website has a septic locator that makes it easy to service professionals in your area.

For more information, contact Morse Engineering and Construction.

Source: EPA.gov

If the amount of wastewater entering the system is more than the system can handle, the wastewater backs up into the house or yard and creates a health hazard.

You can suspect a system failure not only when a foul odor is emitted but also when partially treated wastewater flows up to the ground surface. By the time you can smell or see a problem, however, the damage might already be done.

By limiting your water use, you can reduce the amount of wastewater your system must treat. When you have your system inspected and pumped as needed, you reduce the chance of system failure.

A system installed in unsuitable soils can also fail. Other failure risks include tanks that are inaccessible for maintenance, drainfields that are paved or parked on, and tree roots or defective components that interfere with the treatment process.

Failure symptoms

The most obvious septic system failures are easy to spot. Check for pooling water or muddy soil around your septic system or in your basement. Notice whether your toilet or sink backs up when you flush or do laundry. You might also notice strips of bright green grass over the drainfield. Septic systems also fail when partially treated wastewater comes into contact with groundwater. This type of failure is not easy to detect, but it can result in the pollution of wells, nearby streams, or other bodies of water. Check with a septic system professional and the local health department if you suspect such a failure.

Failure causes

Household toxics

Does someone in your house use the utility sink to clean out paint rollers or flush toxic cleaners? Oil-based paints, solvents, and large volumes of toxic cleaners should not enter your septic system. Even latex paint cleanup waste should be minimized. Squeeze all excess paint and stain from brushes and rollers on several layers of newspaper before rinsing. Leftover paints and wood stains should be taken to your local household hazardous waste collection center. Remember that your septic system contains a living collection of organisms that digest and treat waste.

Household cleaners

For the most part, your septic system’s bacteria should recover quickly after small amounts of household cleaning products have entered the system. Of course, some cleaning products are less toxic to your system than others. Labels can help key you into the potential toxicity of various products. The word “Danger” or “Poison” on a label indicates that the product is highly hazardous. “Warning” tells you the product is moderately hazardous. “Caution” means the product is slightly hazardous. (“Nontoxic” and “Septic Safe” are terms created by advertisers to sell products.) Regardless of the type of product, use it only in the amounts shown on the label instructions and minimize the amount discharged into your septic system.

Hot tubs

Hot tubs are a great way to relax. Unfortunately, your septic system was not designed to handle large quantities of water from your hot tub. Emptying hot tub water into your septic system stirs the solids in the tank and pushes them out into the drainfield, causing it to clog and fail. Draining your hot tub into a septic system or over the drainfield can overload the system. Instead, drain cooled hot tub water onto turf or landscaped areas well away from the septic tank and drainfield, and in accordance with local regulations. Use the same caution when draining your swimming pool.

Water Purification Systems

Some freshwater purification systems, including water softeners, unnecessarily pump water into the septic system. This can contribute hundreds of gallons of water to the septic tank, causing agitation of solids and excess flow to the drainfield. Check with your licensed plumbing professional about alternative routing for such freshwater treatment systems.

Garbage disposals

Eliminating the use of a garbage disposal can reduce the amount of grease and solids entering the septic tank and possibly clogging the drainfield. A garbage disposal grinds up kitchen scraps, suspends them in water, and sends the mixture to the septic tank. Once in the septic tank, some of the materials are broken down by bacterial action, but most of the grindings have to be pumped out of the tank. Using a garbage disposal frequently can significantly increase the accumulation of sludge and scum in your septic tank, resulting in the need for more frequent pumping.

Improper design or installation

Some soils provide excellent wastewater treatment; others don’t. For this reason, the design of the drainfield of a septic system is based on the results of soil analysis. Homeowners and system designers sometimes underestimate the significance of good soils or believe soils can handle any volume of wastewater applied to them. Many failures can be attributed to having an undersized drainfield or high seasonal groundwater table. Undersized septic tanks—another design failure—allow solids to clog the drainfield and result in system failure.

If a septic tank isn’t watertight, water can leak into and out of the system. Usually, water from the environment leaking into the system causes hydraulic overloading, taxing the system beyond its capabilities and causing inadequate treatment and sometimes sewage to flow up to the ground surface. Water leaking out of the septic tank is a significant health hazard because the leaking wastewater has not yet been treated.

Even when systems are properly designed, failures due to poor installation practices can occur. If the drainfield is not properly leveled, wastewater can overload the system. Heavy equipment can damage the drainfield during installation which can lead to soil compaction and reduce the wastewater infiltration rate. And if surface drainage isn’t diverted away from the field, it can flow into and saturate the drainfield.

For more information, contact Morse Engineering and Construction.

Source: EPA.gov

How can I prevent a septic system failure?

• Regular maintenance is the best method to prevent a septic system failure. Septic maintenance includes inspecting the entire system every 1 to 3 years and pumping the tank every 3 to 5 years. The frequency for pumping the septic tank depends on the tank size, number of people in the household, the water habits and use, if a garbage disposal is used, and the amount of solids accumulated in the tank. A rule of thumb is to pump the tank when the solids are two-thirds of the volume in the tank. Routine maintenance is the responsibility of the home or property owner. If you rent a home, you have responsibility for the proper use and operation of the system.
• In general, you can avoid a septic system failure by:
  • Inspecting your system every 1 to 3 years
  • Pumping the tank every 3 to 5 years or as needed
  • Avoiding excess water use (e.g. spreading out laundry use over the week)
  • Flushing only human waste and toilet paper down the toilet.

What are common signs of a failing septic system?

• Water and sewage from toilets, drains, and sinks backing up into the home’s plumbing
• Bathtubs, showers, and sinks draining very slowly
• Gurgling sounds in the plumbing system
• Standing water or damp spots near or over the septic tank or drain field
• Sewage odors around the septic tank or drainfield
• Bright green, spongy lush grass over the septic tank or drainfield, even during dry weather
• Straight pipe discharging untreated wastewater to the ground surface
• Algae blooms in nearby lakes or water bodies
• High levels of nitrates or coliform bacteria in surface waters or drinking water wells

If I smell a foul odor coming from my septic system, does that mean my system is failing?

• There may be several reasons for the smell, which can occur inside or outside your home. If you notice an odor, it may be coming from a roof vent or other vent pipe that allows the system pressure to equalize. This is a normal part of your system. Sometimes these vents can become obstructed and clogged (from leaves, debris, etc.) or the vent pipe can freeze during prolonged cold spells. These situations could cause an odor inside or outside of your home. Another possibility is a downdraft (changes to wind pattern) or other location-specific conditions, which can create an odor inside or outside your home. In these cases, the vent may need to be cleaned or raised. There are charcoal filters available for roof vents that may also alleviate the odors.
• If your drainfield is not working properly, that could be another reason you smell an odor inside your home or around the septic system. Soft, wet, or spongy soil (especially when there have been no significant rainfall events) around your drainfield is a good indication of a system failure.
• It is not possible to diagnose the exact cause of an odor remotely. EPA recommends you contact a local septic system service provider and/or plumber to address the issue.

For more information, contact Morse Engineering and Construction.

Source: EPA.gov