You can hire a qualified private contractor to inspect your septic system.

Usually, an inspection will involve finding the underground tank’s location. This might mean using a sketch of the property and system that was made during the permitting process. Or it can mean flushing a small radio transmitter down the toilet, which is then removed once they locate the tank.

The inspector will then use a long, hollow pole that is known as a Sludge Judge to measure the level of solids in the tank. They will also check the other components in the tank.

A number of factors will determine how much this inspection costs. They usually cost between $100 and $250. It could cost more than this, though, depending on your location, how deep the tank is, and whether or not an inspector has to uncover it.

It’s important to understand that the cost of having a septic tank inspected is quite small compared to the potential cost of paying for repairs. To replace a drain field, for example, can cost you anywhere between $2,500 and $10,000.

For information or to make an appointment, contact Morse Engineering and Construction.

Source: ibuyer.com

Many times folks believe they can simply restart a septic system by flooding it with a high dosage of pre-treated bacteria to eat up the sludge that might be overloading a conventional tank and causing a blockage. While these treatments do have some effect, they are not a system replacement per se.

The fact is, there is already plenty of bacteria working a hardy job in most septic tanks breaking down solids. Unfortunately, it still ends up creating sediment that displaces water and ultimately becomes a silty sludge that can block water flow and limit its eventual drainage out to the leech field or drain field. At that point, it doesn’t matter how much bacteria is present, the tank needs to be physically cleared usually through a professionally-equipped pumping.

How to Maintain Any Septic System Once You Choose One

A worker emptying the underground septic tank with a thick suction hose.

A key step any property owner should be taking is to first make it a regular habit to inspect the current system on a regular basis and have it serviced/pumped consistently as well. At the latest, any septic system with a holding should be pumped and cleaned every three years and not later. This figure might actually shorten and become more frequent if the household size is large and the system is used for more than average home or building.

Second, it might seem counterintuitive but the less water going down the drain, the better. Efficient toilets and faucets can go a long way in limiting the amount of wastewater produced, letting bacteria do its job better in the tank, and reducing the demand on the system to drain and dissipate faster.

Finally, drains should be kept free of non-biological material. Trash waste and processed products should never be sent down the drain and should instead be disposed of in garbage cans instead. These kinds of materials don’t break down quickly and will contribute to the system build-up.

Don’t forget, maintenance of your system also includes keeping up the condition of the drain field as well. No one should ever be allowed to park a car or place anything heavy on the field location itself. Trees, bushes, and thick-root plants should not be allowed to grow anywhere near a drain-field ever.

The roots can be pervasive and extremely destructive to pipes and the tank itself. And another drainage from the house or building should be diverted to a different location versus the drain field. This will avoid excess saturation of the soil with too much water, especially during the rainy season.

For information or to make an appointment, contact Morse Engineering and Construction.

Source: homestratosphere.com

The Intermittent Sand Filter Approach

To compensate for a poor layer of soil, sand is used instead. Sand is extremely permeable for water, which flows through it extremely fast. Sand also collectively has a high density which blocks solid matter from moving forward. With this approach, a sand drain field is essentially created producing the desired drainage effect not otherwise possible.

A Recirculating Sand Filter Approach

For areas where there might be a high sensitivity to a drain field and need to ensure the water existing is completely clear of matter a looped system provides a double sand filter effect. Water moves through a sand block twice before it finally drains and evaporates out. Whatever the first sand filter did not stop, usually in very small particulate matter, the second layer does block.

A Mound Septic Design

Using gravity as an enhancing power, this approach keeps the water line and the tank above the ground level, forcing the wastewater to move into a drain field situation that pulls water downward. The gravity effect forces water through a sand layer that filters it so what finally exits is completely clear liquid into the surrounding soil area.

An Evaporation Septic Approach

Designed for very dry and arid locations, this system uses an evapotranspiration approach to draw water into moisture deficit areas of dry soil, grass, and plants. All three create a suction effect of moisture pulling it through the system. This approach, however, should never be used in areas where there is more than two feet of rainfall annually.

An Aerobic Septic System

Oxygen is a major destroyer of anything organic. This is a well-known biological fact, especially with rotting material. The Aerobic Septic system literally and proactively exposes wastewater to oxygen which speeds up the breakdown process as well as the evaporation later on. Once the water moves through the system it tends to be cleaner and dissipates far faster than other systems.

Drip Irrigation

This approach is ideal for homes where the existing landscape needs to be used and it might not be possible to install the septic system in a nice open field. With the drip irrigation design and the wastewater is pumped out into a network of pipes and channels buried under the ground to the level of 8 inches depth.

However, because this system is quite complex in terms of connections, it’s critical that both the pump out block, as well as the channels, are kept clear through filtering as well as regular maintenance. Otherwise, the channels will likely block up and fail pretty quick.

A Low-Pressure Septic System

It’s not a true alternative septic system per se, but the low-pressure approach does work better in soil areas where the ground doesn’t want to be very cooperative. This system utilizes a low-pressure pumping effect to push water into the tank and out to the soil, forcing it to drain instead of waiting for gravity to do all the work. As the water moves and spreads, it drains out and dissipates into the surrounding soil faster.

For information or to make an appointment, contact Morse Engineering and Construction.

Source: homestratosphere.com

The fact is most people have no idea that they have choices. Your environment where the system will go has a big influence on which septic systems will work better. The problems could range from filling up too quickly to poor drainage to equipment breaking. Almost all of those results mean significant costs for repair and cleanup.

The Two Big Categories of Septic Systems

Almost all septic systems fall in one of two groupings. The first is conventional and the second is, almost predictably, alternative. However, if you thought the choice was easy enough to pick one or the other, surprise. The alternative category alone includes 20 different system models that one can pick from.

The Conventional Septic System Model

This category tends to be what most people are familiar with. The conventional model involves a large tank buried in the ground near the home or building that it will service. Using gravity, the wastewater that comes from the home drains into the tank.

The water line in and out continues to drain liquid out from the tank to the ground which is known as the drain field. Solid mass carried by the wastewater from the home flows into the tank and, with gravity, falls to the bottom while the water itself continues forward to draining. Eventually, due to bacteria, the solid material breaks down in the tank and settles at the bottom.

The big issue with a conventional system is the surrounding soil. The dirt and soil need to be permeable enough that as water flow reaches the tank and then the drain field, it flows into the soil and eventually evaporates upwards into the air as the ground dries out. This is enhanced by a series of pipes from the drain tank into the drain field that allows the water to move forward and farther out into the field instead of saturating the immediate exit point.

The second concern with the conventional system involves the tank. Over time, even with bacteria and break-down, the solid matter will build up inside the tank. This process will take years, but it does occur. If the tank is not pumped regularly the material will eventually block up the flow and the new wastewater will back up into the house or building. Without maintenance, most owners find out about this problem the hard way during the rainy season or a big blockage event.

The conventional septic system design has been a proven approach for decades. Taken care of properly, these standard systems will last anywhere from 25 to 30 years before a full replacement is needed. They are made from usually three different materials: concrete, fiberglass, or polyethylene.

Alternative Septic System Types

Designed to deal with situations where a septic tank is a must but the surrounding soil doesn’t want to cooperate with easy draining, alternative systems use internal methods to help water separately and dissipate from the system faster instead of leaching out in a drain field.

Poor draining situations can occur from a variety of causes. Some are a result of too much rock and impermeable material in the immediate area, making it far too expensive to drill out the lock or break it down to solve the problem.

This happens a lot where a septic system is needed and it turns out just below the surface soil there’s a rock layer, like granite. In other cases, the local water table is simply too high so the wastewater can’t drain out properly with gravity. Swampy areas are notorious for this kind of situation. Fortunately, alternative systems still allow water to be removed and let solid matter escape from the home or building with drainage.

Next week we'll discuss options in alternative systems.

Source: homestratosphere.com/types-of-septic-systems/

What does this program do?

Also known as the Section 504 Home Repair program, this provides loans to very-low-income homeowners to repair, improve or modernize their homes or grants to elderly very-low-income homeowners to remove health and safety hazards.

Who may apply for this program?

To qualify, you must:

• Be the homeowner and occupy the house
• Be unable to obtain affordable credit elsewhere
• Have a family income below 50 percent of the area median income 
• For grants, be age 62 or older and not be able to repay a repair loan

What is an eligible area?

Applicants may check the address of their home to determine eligibility.

How may funds be used?

• Loans may be used to repair, improve or modernize homes or remove health and safety hazards
• Grants must be used to remove health and safety hazards

How much money can I get?

If you need to hire someone to inspect or repair your septic system, this guide will help you make informed decisions.

Why You Need to Inspect Your Septic System

Failing septic systems and cesspools can contaminate drinking water, shellfish beds, and beaches. Title 5 of the State Environmental Code protects us by requiring inspection of private sewage disposal systems. Local boards of health receive these inspection reports. Most systems will pass inspection. Title 5 requires the replacement or upgrade of systems that fail.

If you own a home with a septic system or cesspool and plan to put it up for sale, add a bedroom, or change its use, you will need to get a system inspection. This information will help you make the right decisions about who to hire and how to finance repairs.

You'd Better Shop Around

When you need to hire a system inspector, there are two important things to remember:

1. MassDEP does not regulate inspection fees, nor does any other state agency. Inspectors can charge whatever their customers are willing to pay. The fee also may vary depending on the complexity of the inspection.
2. Only certain professionals may perform Title 5 system inspections:
   • Professionals who meet experience requirements and have passed a MassDEP-administered exam;
   • Registered Sanitarians;
   • Certified Health Officers; and
   • Registered Professional Engineers who specialize in civil, environmental or sanitary engineering.

For a list of qualified system inspectors in your area, contact your local Board of Health. You can also see lists of approved system inspectors on the New England Interstate Water Pollution Control website.

Before hiring anyone, do some comparison shopping:

• Get written estimates from several inspectors. Ask them whether the price of the inspection includes pumping the system; often it does not.
• Ask for and check each inspector's identification and references.
• Before signing a contract, be certain that it spells out the work plan, the cost and payment terms, and any guarantees the inspector is willing to provide.
• Once the inspection is complete, make sure the person who signs the form is the same person who conducted the inspection.

For information or to make an appointment, contact Morse Engineering and Construction.

Source: mass.gov

If the leach field itself has failed, the entire septic system may need to be moved to a different location on the property.

In that case, a septic technician will survey the property for system requirements such as a location relative to any water sources. You’ll also have to get a soil evaluation, which runs about $1,500. Soil technicians will be looking at soil type and slope of the property.

Then a septic contractor will determine if the lot is large enough to accommodate a new drain field. Many existing systems are even with ground level, but new codes may no longer allow this and require unattractive remedies. So if there’s no place with appropriate soil to move the septic to, the homeowner may be forced to install what’s called a sand mound system (a literal mound of sand) or a holding tank system. The former is unsightly, and the latter could require monthly pump-outs.

Keep in mind, a failed system could also have contaminated the soil around its original location, so do soil tests for potential ground contamination at the old site.

For information or to make an appointment, contact Morse Engineering and Construction.

Source: realtor.com

A is one that can no longer treat or distribute the wastewater. You may be dealing with backed-up pipes and drains or a flooded field. This poses a health risk to you and your surrounding community. A may lead to contaminated groundwater, unhealthy drinking water, and an increased chance of bacteria and contaminants in the area.

Signs of a failed septic system may include, but aren’t limited to:

• Slow flushing toilets, or backed-up drains.
• Water and/or sewage backing up into the home through toilets, sinks, and drains.
• Standing water near the tank or around the drain field.
• Sewage smells near the tank.
• Green, springy grass growing rapidly around the tank. Brown, or nearly dead grass, over the tank is often the sign of a healthy septic system (ironically enough!)

If more than one of the above issues occur, it’s likely that your septic system has failed. That means not only is your system posing a health hazard, but standing water in your home and on your property is at risk of additional damage.

For information or to make an appointment, contact Morse Engineering and Construction.

Source: homelight.com

To prevent your system from getting to the point of failure, the National Association of Certified Home Inspectors recommends annual septic system inspections, in addition to an inspection once the home is on the market.

If you have an offer on your home, you might be required to get a septic tank inspection before closing. Some mortgage companies insist on the septic inspection. If it’s not the mortgage company requiring an inspection, it might be your state or local government. Consult with your real estate agent to make sure you’re not evading any local septic laws.

Depending on the inspection process, you might have two professionals take a look at the system. First, a home inspector might request to take a look at the system while on your property. Typically, this is a cursory glance but not a comprehensive review. Secondly, you might be required to conduct a specialty septic inspection. A professional septic inspection runs between $100-$250 and should take under three hours.

For information or to make an appointment, contact Morse Engineering and Construction.

Source: homelight.com

Selling a House with a Septic System

To find out if you need to have a septic inspection before a sale, check with your county's health department. Completing your own pre-inspection can also help you identify any issues.

If the seller knows of any issues with the septic system , the law requires them to disclose it to the buyer. If the seller doesn't disclose the information and the buyer finds out, a pricey lawsuit could be in order.

Sellers and buyers alike wonder whose responsibility it is to repair a damaged septic system. It typically falls on the seller's shoulders to repair the septic system, but you can negotiate costs as part of the deal.

Buying a House with a Septic System

If you are purchasing a house with a septic system, you'll want to know the answers to a few questions:

How old is the house?

• When was the septic tank last inspected and pumped?
• Have you had any back-ups or standing water issues over the septic tank?
• Have there been any repairs on the septic tank?
• You'll also want to make sure a third-party inspector completes a thorough inspection. It may be tempting to get an inspector that will go through the inspection quickly and sign off with a gold star. But that could result in you purchasing a house with a bunch of problems down the road.

Septic systems are highly efficient, as long as you maintain them properly. Do your due diligence by getting regular, professional septic inspections and pumping your septic system regularly. You can also maintain it by not putting any non-biodegradable or hazardous chemicals down your drain.

For information or to make an appointment, contact Morse Engineering and Construction.

Source: listwithclever.com