Harsh winter weather can significantly damage asphalt driveways. When water seeps into the surface, it will freeze and cause the driveway to expand, which leads to cracks and other defects. However, it is possible to safeguard your asphalt from the worst of winter, provided that you know what to do.

Do: Have your driveway seal coated.

We don’t suggest seal coating a new driveway for at least 2-3 years, basically seal coating is far more of an aesthetic application, but due to the pavement curing, seal coating is not recommend during this time. You could schedule sealcoating every 5 years or so for aesthetic purposes and to ensure the surface is still protected against moisture.

Take care when shoveling asphalt driveways

Removing snow and ice from your driveway to prevent water damage is crucial, but be careful about the type of shovel you choose. Plastic shovels are best since they’re less likely to cause cracks in the pavement like a metal shovel would. You should also be diligent about shoveling every time it snows. Allowing snow to linger on the pavement will only wear it down faster.

Don’t: Ignore cracks.

Even small cracks in asphalt allow more water to flow under the surface. Fortunately, many minor cracks can be patched, which prevents further damage from occurring. The sooner you have cracks repaired, the better. If you wait too long, it’s likely that potholes will develop, which can damage your vehicle.

Use certain de-icers.

De-icers like rock salt can also damage asphalt by wearing down the surface. Additionally, rock salt is ineffective at melting ice if the temperature is 15° F or lower.

Consider an alternative like magnesium chloride. Due to its slow attack rate, it’s generally considered less corrosive when used correctly. It’s also effective at temperatures as low as -5 °F.

connect2local.com

When it comes to de-icing sidewalks and driveways after a winter storm, not all salts are created equal.

Most of the popular de-icing products sold in stores are chloride-based, each containing a different combination of salt. Knowing the type of salt you are buying at the store could make a big difference in protecting plants, grass and even the concrete around your home.

Regardless of the product, use just enough de-icer to get the job done. Excess amounts can harm plants and concrete surfaces, especially rock salt and potassium chloride. All of the chloride-based products can be toxic to plants and animals. Blanketing areas with de-icer is unsafe and won’t be any more effective than smaller amounts.

Regardless of product used, homeowners should take the time to remove as much snow and ice as possible before applying a de-icing product.

If you throw a de-icer into the midst of snow, it is going to have very little effect. It will melt some, but it just doesn’t have the efficacy it has when it is on ice. And in some cases, it’s OK to let the sun help.

Take a look at what the temperatures are going to be. If you get a clear day following the storm, you can have a lot of the work taken care of for you by Mother Nature. Let solar radiation take the work out of your hands.

Want someone to take care of it for you? No problem!

Morse Engineering selects the appropriate de-icing materials to minimize damage to your paving and landscape while maximizing ice melting results. For serious applications our salt spreaders are equipped with calcium tanks to “pre-wet” the salt in order to release heat and attract moisture. The pre-wetting process ultimately creates a brine for fast and effective melting of stubborn ice at air temperatures well below freezing.

Source: ksre.k-state.edu

Very warm Thanksgiving greetings from all of us at Morse Engineering and Construction Industries, LLC. As business owners, clients, prospective clients, friends and family, and suppliers our sense of appreciation for all of you has never been higher.

Like us, each of you have had unique and serious challenges during the last couple of years, most likely both professionally and personally. We are reflecting upon these challenging times with a “glass half-full” perspective and we hope that you all are doing the same. Each and every one of you has delivered a positive and enduring effect on us and our business as well as on those around you. We hope that in some way we’ve done the same for you.

Wishing you sincere peace and joy this Thanksgiving holiday. While surrounded by family and friends, we take time for positive reflection upon all of life’s blessings, we hope that you do as well. Happy Thanksgiving from everyone here at Morse Engineering and Construction Industries, LLC.

Septic systems generally perform well; however, there are a few things that are good to know about a septic system before you buy a property. Here are suggested questions that could save you thousands of dollars.

Where is the septic tank located?

You may need this information when you have the tank inspected or worked on. Additionally, if you’re thinking about adding an addition to the home; will the tank need to be moved?

Where is the tank lid or riser access to the tank?

Good to know when you want to have the tank pumped or to perform maintenance.

Is there room for a secondary leach field should the existing one fail?

Note that if there was a permit and plans, the plans will normally show the future secondary field. The local building department or health department may have a copy of the plans. Having room for a second leach field is important, should the existing leach field fail.

Where is the filter access located?

Not all tanks have a filter, but if so, knowing where it is will be helpful when you wish to check it or clean it.

If the leach field is a chamber type, is there an inspection port and where is it?

Leach fields that are constructed with a chamber type of leach lines may have an inspection port. An inspection port allows you to monitor and check the water level in the leach field lines.

Was a permit obtained when the system was installed?

If the seller doesn’t know, the local building department or health department may be able to answer the question. They may also have drawings of the tank and leach field location.

How old is the septic system (tank, leach field and filter)?

This helps you to determine if you should anticipate future expenses for repair, maintenance or replacement.

When was the last time the septic tank was pumped?

Also, how often was it pumped out the tank. Did they go 10 years between pumping? Knowing when and how often helps determine how the system may be functioning or demonstrate lack of good maintenance.

What company last pumped the tank?

With this information, you will be able to call them to pump the tank for you should you want and ask questions about the system.

Has the tank ever leaked, been repaired, or has the leach field failed?

If so – who, what, when, where, etc. are good questions. These types of questions may provide additional information on the septic systems condition.

Are there any wells near the tank or leach field, if so where?

Systems that are too near a well can cause water contamination under certain circumstances. Having the well water tested will help answer if there is any cause of concern.

Source: buyersask.com

The person who’s responsible for carrying out the inspection is determined based on where you live. In Massachusetts, it’s the sellers’ responsibility to handle inspections and ensure the septic system is Title V.

Is the seller obligated to fix any septic problems?

The responsibility to pay for septic repairs typically falls to the seller. However, repairs of any kind found at inspection are generally negotiable. Contract terms usually dictate the course of action, but sellers may have such options as doing the repairs themselves, splitting repair costs with the buyer, giving the buyer a closing credit equal to the amount of the repairs, or refusing to do anything. If an agreement on repairs isn’t reached, the buyer does have the legal right to walk away from the transaction.

Don’t forget about disclosure

In all states, sellers are required to disclose any known problems with a home to potential buyers. If there’s a septic issue after closing that the sellers knew about, they will be liable for the entire cost of the repairs.

For more information on septic system inspections and repair, Contact Morse Engineering and Construction for more information.

Source: realtor.com

Experts say you should get a septic system inspection every three years. But here’s a dose of reality: Most homeowners never get their septic systems inspected unless there is a notable issue, according to Alex Glaser, a real estate agent in Richmond, VA.

But that means homeowners get an inspection only when issues that may signal big trouble arise, such as when the toilet backs up, water takes too long to drain, or there’s an actual septic system leakage. The benefit of doing an inspection every three years is to avoid major problems like these.

The three-year mark is also the maximum amount of time you should let your septic system go without being pumped out.

A problem caught at inspection can save you from having to replace the entire septic system (read: shell out a ton of money). It’s especially important to keep your septic system in good shape if you plan on selling. During closing, a certified inspection will be performed and you don’t want any last-minute surprises.

Source: realtor.com

Winter is on it's way, and it's going to be cold.

There's nothing worse than having your septic freeze over during winter. Below are some of the most common freezing issues that septic owners face as winter sets in:

No protective cover from snow.

Your septic system needs an insulating cover or blanket. The tank and the drain field, mound, or trench, should all have this cover to trap heat inside the system. As you know, there are resident anaerobic bacteria in the septic tank that break down the solid waste materials and treat the raw wastewater that your household produces. The heat maintains a high level of metabolism among the bacteria. If you don't provide a good snow cover, the frost will go deep into the septic components, eventually freezing the entire system.

Soil compaction.

This is caused by placing heavy vehicles and structures over the septic system. When this happens, the septic underneath freezes more easily, resulting in damaged septic parts and eventually a failed system.

Snow compaction.

Snow that is compacted insulates poorly. When you drive over the septic, you compact the snow and this pushes the snow even deeper into the septic. Always use insulated pipes in your septic so that your septic system will still be insulated, even if you drive over your septic in the winter.

Long intervals of not using the septic.

This often happens to various vacation homes that are not always used during the weekend. It also takes place in homes where there are only one or two inhabitants. Wastewater does not enter the septic system regularly to prevent it from freezing.

Not enough plant cover.

This usually takes place during the fall when there are new septics installed. Not enough plant cover is established before winter. The vegetative cover helps insulate the septic and also aids in holding the snow.

Leaks in the plumbing system.

If there are leaks, the small amounts of water that enter the septic will easily freeze the system over. The water discharged by humidifiers and furnaces also add to the moisture because of the discharge that they release in small amounts.

Poor drainage in the pipes.

When pipes are deteriorated, full of back-filled soil, or poorly installed, water tends to accumulate on one side and this liquid freezes over. Make sure that the wastewater drains out of the pipe.

System is waterlogged.

The septic becomes water logged when it is failing hydraulically. The water that goes to the side will freeze and this will prevent the next batch of wastewater from being treated.

Cold air is in the septic.

If you have it uncapped or open, surely cold air will enter the septic and freeze it over.

For more information on septic tank inspection, contact Morse Engineering and Construction.

visihow.com

If you own a septic tank, you are responsible for it. That means professional maintenance, vigilant care, and proper treatment. The main benefits of proper maintenance are cost savings and environmental protection.

1. Get a professional inspection

If you are buying a home and it has a septic tank, make sure it is professionally inspected before you move forward. Important information to gather includes the age and location of the septic tank, including any installation and maintenance details. Some signs of a damaged septic tank system are damaged vents, soggy lawns, and odors.

If your home inspector recommends a specialist, get one.

As a septic tank owner, you are now responsible for regular maintenance and pumpings.

Have your septic tank inspected by a licensed professional every 3 years. Schedule septic tank pumpings whenever necessary or every 3 – 5 years. Alternative septic systems should be inspected annually.

2. Watch what goes down your drains

One of the most important factors for maintaining the health and effectiveness of your septic system is to watch what goes down your drains.

You may already know not to pour chemicals, grease, oil pesticides, gasoline, antifreeze, or paint down your drains, but read on to find out about the things you may not know about.

Toilets:

There are only two things that should ever go down your toilet: human waste and toilet paper. It’s simple. But, that means no wet wipes, feminine hygiene products, tissues, paper towels, Q-tips, or anything else. Read our blog for more information about what NOT to throw down your toilet and why it’s so important.

Laundry Room:

Many people don’t realize that running multiple loads of laundry during the day can put excess strain on your septic system, risking flooding to the drainfield. Consider spreading out your washes over the week and switching to a more energy and water efficient washer, such as an ENERGY STAR washer.

Kitchen Sinks/Garbage Disposal:

Grease, oil, chemicals, paint, and other household products separate from the wastewater in your septic tank and eventually need to be properly disposed of. Reduce the amount of scum and sludge that enters your drainage system or prepare to spend more time and money on septic tank inspections and pumpings.

If you are an urban dweller, you still have a responsibility to watch what goes down your drains.

3. Use water efficiently

Too much water entering the septic tank can cause overflow and flooding problems. Besides saving money on your water bill, you can help maintain your septic system by watching how much water you use.

Luckily, there are some easy ways to minimize your use of water:

• Switch over to low-flow plumbing fixtures and high-efficiency toilets.
• Install or replace faucet aerators
• Run full loads of dishes and laundry
• Periodically test your plumbing system for leaks
• Take shorter showers and be mindful of water waste
• Upgrade to energy-efficient appliances
• Only use toilets for flushing toilet paper and human waste
• Sign up for a plumbing maintenance plan or remember to schedule professional plumbing maintenance every year

4. Care for your drainfield

If you aren’t taking proper care of your drainfield, you risk sewage flooding your property, damaged vegetation, and much more. Make sure you are taking care of your drainfield by:

• Planting only grass and removing any trees or plants that can cause root intrusion
• Not driving or parking on the drainfield. The soil can compress and damage parts of your septic system.
• Diverting other water sources away from the drainfield. Make sure rainwater, sump pump drains, and other excessive water is diverted elsewhere. Drainfield flooding is a common problem that can cause septic tank problems and plumbing fixture backups.

For more information or an inspection, contact Morse Engineering and Construction.

EPA

Here are some frequently asked questions and answers on Title 5 septic regulations.

My home has a septic system. Do I need to have it inspected before I sell?

If you are selling your home, you cannot close without a passing Title V inspection of your septic system, completed by an inspector who is licensed by the state and your town. A Title V Inspection is good for 2 years. However, the inspection will be valid for 3 years if you have documented septic pumping service each year on or before the anniversary date of your septic system inspection.

The inspector will determine whether your system “passes,” “fails” or “conditionally passes” (i.e., requires repairs).

What is a conditional pass?

A conditional pass means that your system will pass if a certain condition is met. A repair or replacement of the distribution box is the most common condition that needs to be met. The inspector would write up his official Title V report with the conditional pass notes outlining the needed replacement of the distribution box. Once the repair is done, your Board of Health will issue a Certificate of Compliance which will be accepted as a passing Title V at closing.

My septic system failed. What do I do now?

If the inspection fails, your septic system must be repaired or replaced. If ownership of the house is not being changed, the homeowner may have up to two years to complete the repair. However, if the Health Agent deems the failure to be a health hazard, the homeowner can be required to begin the process of repairing it immediately.

Failed septic systems can be handled in a real estate sales transaction in two ways. First, the seller can undertake the work and complete it prior to closing, with a full sign off from the Board of Health. This is often the preferable course for all parties and the lender. Alternatively, the parties can agree to an escrow holdback to cover the cost of the septic repair plus a contingency reserve, and the work is undertaken after the closing. Some lenders don’t allow septic holdbacks, however.

What are the steps and permitting fees to install a new septic system?

The first step in beginning a septic repair is to hire an engineer to evaluate your land and to design a system that would be appropriate for your property. Once the engineer is hired, a percolation or “perc” test is scheduled. The perc test measures the rate at which water is absorbed into the ground and determines whether the soil is suitable for a septic system. Based on the results of the perc test, the size of your lot, and the number of bedrooms in your home, the engineer designs a septic system to serve the property. Once the plans have been drawn, four copies of the plans, two copies of the soil analysis, and a check for $175.00 must be submitted to the Board of Health office. The BOH has 45 days to review the plans and to either approve or reject them. If the plans are approved, the plans can be picked up and the installation of the system can begin. If the plans are rejected, the plans must be revised and an additional fee of $75.00 is charged to have them reviewed again. If the designed system requires state variances (done by the Department of Environmental Protection), an additional 90 days must be allotted for the review process.

When the job is completed is there any form of certification that it has been done and that it meets Title V standards?

At the completion of the job, (that is, when all work has been done according to the plans; when the engineer has submitted an “as-built” plan as to where the system was installed; and when the installer has submitted a certification statement), the Health Agent signs a Certificate of Compliance, (COC), which is issued to the installer. Upon payment for the work, the installer gives the COC to the homeowner.

How long does the process for repairing a septic system take, from beginning to end?

A homeowner should allow approximately 3 to 4 months for the installation of a septic system. The length of time can vary from system to system. There are a number of variables involved. The availability of the Health Agent to witness a “perc “ test is one. Because of the amount of work that has to be completed, engineers and installers are often busy for months in advance. In addition, if the designed system requires either local or state variances, time must be allotted for public / variance hearings. A system that is installed in less than 2 months (from start to finish) is the exception to the rule.

If I am required to replace my failed system and I do not have the money, what do I do?

Homeowners who cannot afford to repair their failed septic systems made apply for financial aid with the Massachusetts Home Septic Loan Program. Here is the MassHousing Web site. Here is the PDF for the Homeowner Septic Loan Repair program. Applications for this program are available at most local banking institutions. The loans are low interest and repayable over an extended period of time.

The state also provides a tax credit of up to $6,000 over 4 years to defray the cost of septic repairs to a primary residence. Forms are available from the Department of Revenue (DOR) to allow homeowners to claim up to $6,000 in tax credits for septic upgrades. The credit cannot exceed $1,500 in any year and may be spread out over 4 years. The tax credit is limited to work done on a primary residence only. Tax Form Schedule SC is the correct form for the tax credits.

I have a cesspool. Will that pass Title V?

You may be wondering how this all applies to cesspools. Cesspools are much harder to pass in Massachusetts. Does every single one automatically fail? No.

Only those cesspools that exhibit signs of hydraulic failure, are located very close to private or public water supplies, or otherwise do not protect or pose a threat to the public health, safety or the environment will need to be upgraded. Also, cesspools must be upgraded prior to an increase in design flow (e.g., the addition of a bedroom to a home.

For more information on septic tank sizing and construction, contact Morse Engineering and Construction.

Source: massrealestatelawblog.com

Septic tanks are typically made of fiberglass, plastic or reinforced concrete. Metal tanks also are available, but these can corrode rapidly and aren’t typically recommended. Septic tanks may be constructed in rectangular, round or oval forms, but the shape of a septic tank doesn’t typically affect its function. The most important factor in choosing a septic tank is making sure you have the right size to accommodate your home.

A Range of Tank Sizes

Septic tank sizes are measured in gallons, based on the amount of sewage the tank can hold. Septic tanks must hold at least two days' worth of sewage from your home so that the solids properly separate from the liquids before the liquids move into the absorption field. The tank size is based on the number of bedrooms in your home. Standard tank sizes are typically 1,000, 1,250 and 1,500 gallons, and these suit most homes. Typically, the minimum tank liquid capacity of a one- to three-bedroom home is 1,000 gallons. A four-bedroom home requires a minimum 1,250-gallon tank, and a home with five bedrooms requires a minimum tank liquid capacity of 1,500 gallons. If you have a hot tub or whirlpool, add one-bedroom worth of capacity per fixture.

Estimating Your Needed Tank Size

Tank size is calculated using a simple calculation, although other factors, such as soil type, must be considered as well. For this reason it’s best to have an expert assess the site and your home to determine the ideal size of tank for your needs. However, to get an idea of the minimum size required for your home, multiply 150 gallons per bedroom, and then multiply the total by two to allow for the 48-hour retention time needed. For example, a one-bedroom home would need a minimum tank liquid capacity of 300 gallons. If your home has more than six bedrooms, or you have five bedrooms and a hot tub, you would multiply 150 by 6, and the total, which is 900, is multiplied by 2 to give you a minimum liquid capacity of 1,800 gallons.

For more information on septic tank sizing and construction, contact Morse Engineering and Construction.

Source:homeguides.sfgate.com